
Class ___^jt2.^_ 
Book . O74 

COPWIGHT DEPOSir. 



WATER-LILIES 
AND HOW TO GROW THEM 



THE GARDEN LIBRARY 

Roses and How to Grow Them 

by Many Experts 

Ferns and How to Grow Them 

by G. A. Woolson 

Lawns and How to Make Them 

by Leonard Bar on 

Daffodils-Narcissus and How to Grow Them 
by A. M. Kir by 




Plate I.— WHERE THE WATER-LILY GROWS 

The subtle charm of the water garden lies as much in the delicate patchwork 
of light and shade as in the wonderful colourings of the gorgeous flowers running 
from dazzling white through lemon, to pink and crimson and the clearest blue 



WATER-LILIES 

AND HOW TO GROW THEM 



JVith Chapters on the Proper Making of 
Ponds and the Use of Accessory Plants 



By 
HENRY S. CONARD and HENRI HUS 



ILLUSTRATED 




NEW YORK 

Doubled?y, Page & Company 

1907 



OCT 23 »^? 
Conyrisrhf Entrv 

CLASS A A'Xc, No. 
CO FY L 






Copyright, 1907, by Doubleday, Page & Company 
Published, October. 1907 



All Rights Reserved 

Including that of Translation into Foreign Languages, 

Including the Scandinavian 



PUBLISHERS' NOTE 

Water-lilies are essentially flowers for 
the man or woman who revels in magnificent 
colours, for the hues are not equalled in 
variety or brilliancy by the flowers of any 
other plants. Is it any wonder that the 
water-lilies continue to receive a constantly 
increasing share of attention from horti- 
culturists in all parts of the world ? 

Within recent years, so much has been 
accomphshed through the efforts of hybridis- 
ing and hybridisers, many of whom in 
America have equalled or even surpassed the 
results obtained by the famous French and 
English raisers, to whose efforts, it is true, the 
modern activity is largely due. But with the 
more favourable climatic conditions of this 
country, still more striking productions have 
been placed before the gardener. There are 
very few ponds or pools that cannot be 
adapted as cultural sites for the water-lilies, 



VI WATER-LILIES 

and where such do not exist the possi- 
bility of growing some of these most gorgeous 
flowers is not by any means beyond one's 
reach, for even in a tub of very moderate 
dimensions, one or two water-HHes may be 
easily grown. They have their peculiar inter- 
ests, too, in the fact that some open by day 
while others are night-bloomers; some are 
hardy, while others are tender. And it is in 
the tender night-bloomers that by far the most 
resplendent combinations of colours are found. 

In the following chapters, an effort has been 
made to place before the reader in simple terms 
the relative values of the different varieties in 
the various groups, so that he can make the 
choice of the kinds that will suit his conditions 
without having to indulge in time-consuming 
and costly experiments. The essential facts 
of water-lily culture are told in simple terms, 
together with principles of pond construction 
and management. 

The more cultural chapters of the book 
(Chapters ii., iii., iv., v., vi.,x.,xii., xiii., and 
xiv.) have been supplied chiefly by Mr. 



publishers' note vii 



Henri Hus, with the cooperation of the 
veteran cultivator, Mr. James Gurney, whose 
association with water-hly growing dates back 
to the occasion when the giant Victoria regia 
first opened its flowers in cultivation. Mr. 
Gurney is a pioneer in water-hly culture and 
his work at the Missouri Botanical Garden, 
and later at Tower Grove Park, St. Louis, 
Mo., is well known. 

The remaining chapters (Chapters i., vii., 
viii., ix., and xi.), dealing with the relative 
merits of the different varieties offered in the 
trade, are chiefly by Professor Henry S. 
Conard, who has made a special study of the 
entire family; he is the author of a monograph 
on the geniiS Nymphaea, published by the 
Carnegie Institution, and is perfectly familiar 
with the work of the hybridists, having 
watched the development of many of the 
crosses made by Mr. Tricker and others. 

The lists of water-lilies for special purposes 
given in Chapter xv. are also chiefly Pro- 
fessor Conard's, into which have been em- 
bodied a few suggestions made by Mr. Gurney. 



CONTENTS 

CHAPTER PAGE 

I. Where Water Gardens Can Be Made . 3 
II. Economical Pond Construction . .21 

III. Soils and Planting Out 41 

IV. Wintering and Propagating .... 53 
V. Seed Saving and Starting 67 

VI. Raising New Varieties 75 

VII. The Hardy Water-lilies 89 

VIII. The Tender Day Blooming Water-lilies 107 

IX. The Night Blooming Water-lilies . . 125 

X. Growing the Giant Victorias . . . 141 
XL Lotuses, Water Hyacinths and Other 

Choice Aquatics 157 

XII. Water Gardens Under Glass .... 173 

XIII. Enemies and Friends 181 

XIV. Pond Surroundings, Windbreaks, and 

Accessory Plants 191 

XV. Water-lilies for Special Purposes . . 213 

Index , 223 



IX 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

PLATE 

I. Where the Water-lily Grows (O. Ames) 

Frontispiece 

FACING PAGE 

II. The Smallest Practical Water-lily Pond 

(E. E. Trumbull) .... 4 

III. Beer Vats and Zinc Tanks as Pond 

Substitutes ..... 5 

IV. Concrete Construction for Small Tanks 

(B. G. Foster) . . . .22 

V. Pools on a Hillside Garden (E. T. Har- 

'vey) 23 

VI. A Water-lily Pond Before Planting (H. 

Hus) 26 

VII. Formal Concrete Pool for Victorias and 

Nymphaeas (H. Hus) . . .27 

VIII. Artistic Designs in Artificial Ponds 

(H. Troth and H. C. Tibbetts) . 34 

IX. How to Treat a Concrete Edge (H. Troth) 3 5 



Xll WATER-LILIES 

PLATE FACING PAGE 

X. Harmonies with the Locations {H, C, 

Tihhetts and A . J. McNally) . . 46 

XI. Pools with Open Surroundings {H. Troth) 47 

XII. An Interesting Study in Mechanics {H. 

S. Conard) . . . . .84 

XIII. A Pond in a City Garden (il. Hus) . 85 

XIV. Some of the Best Hardy Kinds — I (Dreer) 92 

XV. Some of the Best Hardy Kinds— II {N. 

R. Graves) . . . . -93 

XVI. Water-HHes Everyone Should Know — I 

{Dreer) . . . . .96 

XVII. Water-lilies Everyone Should Know — II 

(Dreer) ..... 97 

XVIII. Water-lilies Everyone Should Know — III 

(Dreer) 112 

XIX. Water-lilies Everyone Should Know — IV 

(Dreer) 113 

XX. The Flower-bud of a Victoria (L. Barron) 130 

XXI. A Sub-tropical Water Garden (if . JFfwj) 131 

XXII. The Giant Victoria at St. Louis (^. ^W5) 142 



ILLUSTRATIONS XIll 

PLATE FACING PAGE 

XXIII. Victoria Pond before Planting (H.Hus) 143 

/ XXIV. The Picturesque Indian Lotus {H. S. 

Conard) . . . . .160 

XXV. The Beautiful, but Overwhelming Water 

Hyacinth {H. Hus) . . .161 

XXVI. An Aquatic Garden under Glass (if. E. 

Angell) ..... 176 

XXVII. The Water Poppy with its Brilliant Yel- 
low Flowers {H. Troth) . -177 

XXVIII. The Easiest Margin Plantings {Wm. 

Macjarlane . . .196 

XXIX. Plants that Lend Variety to the Pool 

{H. E. Angell) . . . .197 

; XXX. The Native Water-clover (H. Troth) . 204 

XXXI. Breaking the Flat Outline {H. Hus) . 205 



Where Water Gardens Can Be Made 



WATER-LILIES 

CHAPTER I 

Where Water Gardens Can Be Made 

A POND of water-lilies is a possibility for 
anyone who can give two square feet of water 
surface in a sunny spot, and it should be near 
at hand so that you can easily see the flowers 
when they are at their best. All the hardy 
water-hlies must be enjoyed in the morning or 
early afternoon; for the flowers close at 
specific times for each kind, varying from 
noon to four, or at the latest five, o'clock. 
The tender kinds fall within two distinct 
classes, there being both day bloomers and 
night bloomers. 

Half a barrel will make a thoroughly 
practical *Mily-pond" for the smallest gar- 
den! Cut this to a depth of eighteen inches, 
fill two-thirds with a rich, heavy soil, and sink 
3 



4 WATER-LILIES 

SO that the bottom is three inches below the 
level of the ground, for though the leaves and 
flowers love sunshine, the black ooze in which 
the roots naturally live is always cool. 

But one need not stop here. Only space 
and inclination limit the number of barrels 
that may be utilised for this purpose. Arrange 
them so that the whole will form a figure of 
irregular outline and leave some space be- 
tween the individual barrels. These spaces, 
perhaps a foot to eighteen inches wide, offer 
situations well suited to the needs of a variety 
of water-loving plants, such as forget-me- 
nots, Lysimachia and others, which will form 
a framework to set off the beauties of the 
water-lihes. 

Not all the barrels need contain water- 
lilies, however. One or two may be devoted 
to other plants such as water hyacinths, water 
poppies and the like, while taller plants, Hke 
Cyperus Papyrus and nelumbiums tend to 
reheve the flatness necessarily incident to a 
water garden. The latter, however, grow 
quite tall and can be used most effectively in 




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WHERE WATER GARDENS CAN BE MADE 5 

large gardens; and they also look best in 
masses. 

A GARDEN IN A TUB 

A very satisfactory water garden was half 
a kerosene barrel, sunk in the ground at the 
southwest corner of a house, where a rain 
pipe from the roof emptied into it. Here 
the water hyacinth {Eichhornia speciosa) 
grew and flowered, to the delight of all be- 
holders. The tub was nearly full of earth 
in which the plants anchored themselves by 
their roots and were able to resist the tre- 
mendous floods of water from the roof. All 
through the summer there was a succession 
of spikes of big azure flowers, each one with 
a yellow eye-spot; and the glossy, heart- 
shaped leaves, with their stout, spongy 
petioles, were themselves an ornament and a 
curiosity. More than a tubful of the plants 
was thinned out during the season. The 
fault of this garden, aside from its smallness, 
was the irregularity and violence of the water 
supply. No other plant, except perhaps a 



O WATER-LILIES 

cattail (Typha), could have stood the strain. 
A kerosene barrel sawed in half will furnish 
two tubs, each big enough for one lily. 
The tubs should be well washed out and 
soaked for some time in water, in order to 
remove as much as possible of the oil and the 
glue which is put on to render the vessel 
tight. Three or four days to a week will 
suffice for this. 

The difference between a barrel and a 
brewer's hogshead is but one of degree. 
The hogshead is about six feet in diameter, 
and may be bought for about five dollars. 
This modest expenditure makes us the proud 
possessors of two ponds, each of which may 
harbour as many as five or six water-lily 
plants. These two ponds are, of course, 
formed from the ends of the hogshead, sawed 
off to a depth of eighteen inches. Having 
placed the larger ponds in position, the 
smaller barrel ends can be arranged in 
respect to them. The nelumbium and Papy- 
rus barrels must find a place at the back, and 
where they will not prevent the direct sun- 



WHERE WATER GARDENS CAN BE MADE 7 

light from reaching the water-Hlies. Taller 
growing terrestrial plants with bold various- 
coloured foHage, such as certain varieties of 
castor bean and cannas, will form an excellent 
background for the whole. 

One great advantage of the barrels for 
making a water garden is that they are not 
only successful with hardy nymphaeas, but 
are especially well adapted to the require- 
ments of the tender kinds, because the water, 
being limited to a small receptacle, attains a 
higher temperature from the sun heat. 
Danger of the water becoming stagnant is 
eliminated when the barrels are flushed once 
a week with the garden hose, and some 
arrangement should be made for this. 

The successful artificial water garden will 
conform as nearly as possible to the conditions 
under which Nature herself constructs lagoons 
and pools. It is surely common sense that 
it be placed at the foot of a terrace, not on 
top; also, let the ground slope down to it 
on all sides, if possible. 

If it is to stand in a broad, sloping plain, 



8 WATER-LILIES 

grade down the upper side as much as is 
necessary to bring the lower side about on 
the natural level of the ground. 

It is essentially artificial to find anything 
like a long dam or terrace descending from 
the margin of a pond. 

OUTLINES IN RELATION TO SIZE 

It does not offend if the small tank takes 
some conventional shape. A sunken tub is 
essentially round, and a wooden or iron box 
will unavoidably be square-cornered. A 
brick or concrete construction, if not over 
ten feet long, may be rectangular. But if 
possible avoid geometry in the garden. A 
bald circle with a gaping ring of cement be- 
tween the sod and the water is not a thing of 
beauty, though ponds of geometrical figure 
edged with stone coping are effective in for- 
mal gardens. 

Possibly the best of all is a narrow, curving 
pool, like the bed of some slow stream. Let 
it widen out here and there into broad, open 



WHERE WATER GARDENS CAN BE MADE 9 

Stretches if you wish. At the ends, also, or in 
shallow pockets on the side, the water may 
give place to a bog garden. On the north 
side a thicket of trees and shrubs may come 
out to the water's edge. But keep the south 
side clear, so as to admit every available ray 
from the sun. 

TREATMENT OF MARGINS 

It is in the treatment of the margin that 
we make or mar a pond's natural beauty. 
There is no one way in which native waters 
always meet the land, but there are some 
ways in which they never do. Nature never 
made broad borders of concrete or brick or 
hewn stone. Therefore avoid these in mak- 
ing a water garden. Rough stone walls are 
permissible at inlet and outlet only and even 
here they may be avoided if clayey soil can 
be had, provided the bank can be made 
proof against crawfish, which is most im- 
portant. And in place of stones there will 
spring up beds of moisture-loving mosses, 



10 WATER-LILIES 

liverworts, and smooth sheets of Pellaea, 
whose dehcate fruit-stalks shoot up in the 
first warm days of spring. 

Beside the pond itself a path of gravel 
will enable us to come close to the water's 
edge. Now we must bend away from the 
water and around the bog garden; now 
we cross it on a stone causeway or rustic 
bridge. 

All around the grass and flowers run right 
out to the water's edge. This is the essential 
point, and perfectly easy to attain. The 
water-tight construction of the bottom of the 
pond only needs to come up to the height of 
the desired water level. From this point a 
grassy bank may be raised as steep and high 
as one desires. Four to six inches above 
mean water level is high enough. We can 
hide the junction of land and water com- 
pletely by means of water-clover (Marsilia). 
This curious fern-plant, with leaves like a 
four-leaved clover, grows equally well in the 
wet edge of the sod or in the pond to a 
depth of eighteen inches. In the former 



WHERE WATER GARDENS CAN BE MADE II 

situation the leaves stand up three or four 
inches, in the latter they float. 

THE POND BED 

The bed of the pond may be variously 
made. It must be water-tight, not liable to 
injury by frost, and of a suitable size and 
depth. We know one Httle garden which was 
made by simply scooping out the earth like 
the bowl of a spoon and laying in a thick coat 
of cement — no brick, no stone. Here grew 
the big red Devon water-lily {NymphcBa 
Devoniensis), Sturtevant's massive pink 
{Nymphcea Sturtevantit), both tender; the 
white night lotus {Nymphcea Lotus), and 
several hardy varieties, and all with the great- 
est luxuriance. But, alas, one hard winter 
frost cracked the cement, the water ran out 
and all was lost. But, then, no artificial 
pond can last indefinitely without repairs. 

Another water garden amateur had a gor- 
geous show of water hyacinths, big yellow 
water poppies, plumes of parrot-feathers, 



12 WATER-LILIES 

and water-lilies in pink, yellow and white. 
This tank was built of a single course of brick 
carefully laid in cement. The place was 
excavated to a depth of sixteen inches, and 
the bottom and walls were covered with a 
coat of the best Portland cement. Its 
dimensions were four and a half by six and a 
half feet. It had a partition near one end 
coming up nearly to the water level. The 
larger part contained rich earth to a depth of 
about six inches for water-lilies and lotus, the 
smaller was filled with earth and served for bog 
plants. This, however, is not recommended. 

The safest construction, however, is that 
recommended by Mr. Tricker as follows: 
" Dig down two feet six inches and lay a wall 
of brick eight inches thick below, tapering (if 
desired) to four inches at the top. The 
bottom is packed with broken stone, and this 
and the walls are heavily coated with the best 
cement." 

In winter the margins should be protected 
with Htter or leaves. Indeed, it is a good 
thing to draw off all the water and pack the 



WHERE WATER GARDENS CAN BE MADE 1 3 

tank tightly with dead leaves, piling them 
several inches deep over the whole. Hardy 
plants will survive so long as the water does 
not freeze to the bottom. 

As to the depth of the pool; twelve to eigh- 
teen inches is all that is absolutely necessary 
for water-lilies, and eighteen to twenty-four 
will do for Victoria. The additional depth for 
Victoria is best arranged by making a pit in 
the bottom of the pond in which to place its 
tub. Thus room is given for the develop- 
ment of its gigantic leaves and flowers without 
greatly increasing either the work of excava- 
tion or the volume of water required. It is 
very desirable to have the water shallow 
enough for the gardener to walk through it 
with hip boots, though with ponds of twelve 
feet width, or less, a plank can be laid across 
and access to the plants is easy. 

UTILIZING NATURAL SPRINGS 

It is doubtful whether it is easier to build 
a pond in a natural waterway, or to make 



14 WATER-LILIES 

it from the foundation up. Unless the 
natural water course can be easily diverted 
it will usually be better not to use it. For 
every stream at a distance of a hundred feet or 
more from its spring head is subject to flood- 
ing from heavy rains. 

Should a violent current sweep over and 
among our aquatics it would destroy all the 
tender plants, break down our lotus, papyrus, 
and the Hke, and cover everything around 
with a thick layer of mud, and the season's 
hopes would be gone. We shall do best, 
therefore, to secure a more even supply of 
water. A good spring will suffice for any- 
thing except Victoria and the tender water- 
lilies. Indeed, south of Philadelphia, spring 
water will materially help many of the hardy 
nymphaeas to endure the summer heat. Lack- 
ing a spring, water may be drawn by a pipe 
or sluiceway from any near-by stream. The 
sluice will of course be so arranged by gates 
or by position of intake, as to avoid the 
flooding of the pond in case of freshets. But, 
after all, the easiest plan is to draw the water 



WHERE WATER GARDENS CAN BE MADE I5 

from a pipe with a spigot. It is not necessary 
to maintain a continuous flow and change 
of water. Just as a balanced aquarium will 
go for weeks or months without attention, 
so it is with the pond. It is only requisite to 
replace the water lost by evaporation and 
leakage. 

WATER LOSS BY EVAPORATION 

From a surface of sixteen square feet, about 
a bucketful of water escapes every day by 
evaporation and transpiration of the plants. 
Stagnation is prevented by having a few 
fish and some submerged plants like Cabomba 
or Myriophyllum. It is therefore very easy 
to care for a garden up to six by twelve feet, 
even with only a bucket to supply water. 
On the other hand, a large pond fed by a 
natural stream will often be in danger from 
floods. Unless the stream be very small in 
proportion to the lake it will be necessary to 
have means of diverting it into a culvert or 
sluice on occasion. 



l6 WATER-LILIES 

Floating parts of plants have very remark- 
able powers of accommodation to the depth 
of the water. Water-lily leaves may be en- 
tirely submerged in the evening, and by next 
morning their stalks will have grown just 
enough to spread them on the surface again. 
But on all considerations, it is desirable that 
the water level should not vary more than 
four inches at the most; even this amount 
may bring into view ugly strips of mud or 
masonry. An outlet of ample size is as neces- 
sary as an inlet for the regulation of the water 
supply. Small ponds on level or gently slop- 
ing ground may be allowed to overflow their 
sodded margins. If fed by a continuous 
open stream, it may be most artistically led 
away in a similar manner, either directly, or 
by a waterfall, or through a bog garden. 

THE BOG GARDEN 

The bog garden consists merely of very 
wet ground in which a host of interesting 
plants flourish. It must, of course, be beside 



WHERE WATER GARDENS CAN BE MADE 1 7 

a pond or along a stream. In spring the 
brown woolly fronds of cinnamon fern will 
first show themselves, uncoiling as they rise. 
The swamp rose-mallow {Hibiscus mos- 
cheutos) will give a wealth of great white 
or pink flowers in mid-summer. In autumn 
blue mists of asters or a yellow glow of core- 
opsis and dazzling shafts of cardinal flower 
{Lobelia cardinalis) will brighten the spot. 

HANDLING CUT FLOWERS 

Water-lilies do well as cut flowers if they 
are properly handled. The flower selected 
for cutting must be newly opened or just 
about to open. In nature the hfe of each 
bloom is limited to three or four days, but 
in the house it may keep a day or two longer. 
Occasionally death seems to overtake the 
motor centres while the flower is still open, 
and then it remains several days before the 
petals wither. The new flower may be recog- 
nised by these features: (i) The stamens 
spread apart at the centre of the flower, 



l8 WATER-LILIES 

leaving a free passage down to the stigma; 

(2) the anthers are plump and round and 
have not yet begun to shed any pollen; 

(3) the basin-Hke stigma is filled with liquid 
excreted from its surface. 

The flower stalk is scarcely able to supply 
the petals with water; the cut flower should 
be floated in a dish or, if placed in a vase, 
the vase should be full to the brim with water, 
the flower projecting as httle as possible. 
When carried from the sunny garden into the 
house the flower is likely to close, on account 
of the diminished light, but it will open again 
next morning as well as if it were outside. 



Economical Pond Construction 



CHAPTER II 
Economical Pond Construction 

Ponds built entirely of brickwork or con- 
crete offer certain serious objections. In the 
first place, their banks cannot be planted. 
Besides, where the winters are very cold, 
projecting brick or concrete walls must be 
protected, and it is only where the ponds 
form part of a formal plan, that the grey 
masonry edges, projecting half a foot or more 
above the ground, are appropriate. As a 
general rule, a combination of concrete and 
puddling is to be preferred. 

For a brick and cement pond, excavate to 
a depth of two and one-half feet. The sides 
are given a circular slope, which forms an 
angle of about 45° with the perpendicular. 
After the floor has been thoroughly levelled, 
bricks are laid and cemented into place. 
Then the walls are built in the same way. 



22 WATER-LILIES 

They must reach to within one foot from the 
bottom. The whole is finally covered with 
a one-half-inch finishing coat of cement. 

The slope above the brick wall must now 
be covered with puddled clay, thoroughly 
pounded into place, allowing the clay gener- 
ously to overlap the cement. It is not neces- 
sary for the puddled clay closely to follow 
the outhnes of the pond; for this combina- 
tion of brickwork and clay allows of a planting 
of the edges of the pond and some plants 
demand more space than others, and some 
even must be allowed to grow out at will if 
they are to look acceptable. This is true for 
the majority of plants used in the water 
garden, one great charm of which lies in the 
unforced contour lines. When finished, the 
pond will be about two feet three inches deep. 

A water supply must now be arranged. 
This can come from a faucet, which is a good 
deal better than a fountain, since a continual 
spray is not good for water-lilies and has a ten- 
dency to give them a bedraggled appearance. 

A low fence, constructed of perforated 




In this tank the water-lilies bloom almost continuously. Gladioli, nasturtiums 
and hollyhocks are planted nearby 




The tank is 8 x 4 ft. and was made of concrete. It cost $11.28 all told 
{For details see page 29) 

Plate IV.— CONCRETE CONSTRUCTION FOR SMALL TANKS 



ECONOMICAL POND CONSTRUCTION 23 

pipes and connected with the water system, 
may surround the pond. This will very 
effectually flush the pond, but is not necessary 
since a single faucet through which the water 
can be turned on from time to time is amply 
sufficient to remove any scum which may 
accumulate on the surface of the pond. Of 
course an overflow, connected with a drain 
or silt-pit, must be provided. This should 
be placed in position before the laying of the 
foundation is begun. A narrow drain pipe 
will be sufficient for all requirements. 

The cost of construction of a 10 x 24 ft. 
pond of the above character is: 

LABOUR 

Excavating, i man, i day $ 2.00 

Masons, 2 men, 2 days 24.00 

MATERIAL 

Brick and cement ;^20.oo 

Clay, piping, etc 2.00 

Total $48.00 

Larger ponds are arranged on the same 
principle and their cost is greater in 
proportion. 



24 WATER-LILIES 

Ponds entirely made of concrete are 
adapted to formal gardens only. Their 
construction on a large scale had best be left 
to contractors who make a specialty of this 
sort of work. At the present time, granitoid 
would most probably be the material selected, 
reinforced, in the case of large ponds, with 
steel rods. The cost of construction of a 
circular pond of this nature and about twenty 
feet in diameter, would be fooo; that of one 
thirty feet in diameter, about ^350. This 
figure includes all labour, but makes no 
provision for a heating arrangement which, 
according to its nature, would cost from 
;gi5o to ;?3oo. 

Should one wish to do all the work oneself, 
or perhaps engage unskilled labour, the 
following style of pond can advantageously 
be adopted. Having decided upon the size 
and location of the pond, mark the outline 
and proceed with the excavation; an area of 
about 240 square feet to a depth of three and 
one-half feet can be accomplished by one man 
in one day. Give the sides a slope of 60°. 



ECONOMICAL POND CONSTRUCTION 25 

After the earth has been removed and the 
bottom levelled, bring in sufficient cinders to 
make a layer six inches thick, covering v^ith 
a layer of sifted cinders about one inch thick. 
Cinders are also banked against the sides to 
the height of eighteen inches. These cinders 
must be rammed and rolled till the surface is 
as smooth as possible. Then put on top of 
this a layer of granitoid from three to four 
inches thick. It may be prepared by mixing 
one part of Portland cement and three parts 
of finely crushed granite. This must be 
finished off as smooth as possible. The 
sides are to be formed v^ith the aid of a v^ooden 
mould such as is described subsequently. 
Afterwards cover the whole with a one-half 
inch finishing coat composed of equal parts of 
Portland cement and granitoid siftings. The 
sides, where not covered by granitoid, are 
puddled with clay in the way just indicated. 
The actual process of puddling is described 
in detail on page 32. 

A pond constructed in this manner is per- 
haps less costly than any other but a puddled 



26 WATER-LILIES 

pond. For a pond lo x 24 ft. the cost would 
be about as follows: 

LABOUR 

Excavating, i man, i day $ 2.00 

Mixing granitoid, sifting cinders, puddling, etc., 
I man, i day 2.00 

MATERIAL 

Cement and granite, also clay 30.00 

Total fe4.oo 

A ID X 24 ft. pond is of course, quite big, 
and if one is satisfied with something on a 
smaller scale, say 8x4 ft., the cost is reduced 
considerably. 

HOME CONCRETE CONSTRUCTION 

In Country Life in America Mr. B. G. 
Foster gives the following account of a small 
tank of concrete construction: 

"With the assistance of a workman who 
had some knowledge of mixing concrete, I 
constructed a tank, the area of which at the 
top is about four by eight feet. The tank is 







« i^ 






ECONOMICAL POND CONSTRUCTION 27 

three feet deep, and the walls, six inches thick, 
incline inward at a slight angle. The bottom 
is four inches thick, and is, hke the walls, 
constructed of broken stone, sand and Port- 
land cement, the whole having a lining of 
cement and sand. 

"It being the first of October before the 
tank was finished, it was allowed to stand 
over winter, a cover being placed over it to 
prevent the accumulation of water. In early 
spring, the bottom was partitioned by boards 
into four compartments, one foot in depth, 
which were filled with a rich mixture of well- 
rotted manure and good soil. In each com- 
partment a lily root was set, and afterward 
the earth was covered with a thin layer of 
sand. The tank was then carefully filled 
with water from the well. But one filHng was 
necessary and the water has never been 
changed except by rain and evaporation. A 
few goldfish were introduced to prevent the 
breeding of mosquitoes and other obnoxious 
insects 

"While awaiting developments I cleared 



28 WATER-LILIES 

away the accumulated dirt, sodded the mar- 
gins around the garden, and permitted the 
ladies of the household to plant gladioli, 
nasturtiums and the Hke in the neighbour- 
hood, while a cluster of hollyhocks at one end 
served further to break the monotony. The 
first lily opened fifty-eight days after setting 
out the plants, and from that time the plants 
were in almost continual bloom until late in 
the autumn, as many as twelve blossoms 
being open at one time. 

"The mould used in forming the tank was 
made of waste lumber and consisted of four 
parts: a lower bottom-forming frame, a core 
or inside box, an outside casing or box, and a 
coping-forming frame. The hole having been 
dug slightly larger than the finished basin 
was to be, the bottom frame (A) was first 
placed therein. This frame, formed of old 
2x4 scantlings arranged on edge, had inside 
dimensions equal to the outside dimensions 
of the bottom of the tank, and after having 
been placed in position, it was filled level with 
concrete, thoroughly tamped or packed. 



ECONOMICAL POND CONSTRUCTION 



29 



forming the tank bottom. The side- walls 
were then moulded by means of the outer 
tapered box (B) and an inner correspondingly 
shaped box (C), the two boxes being con- 
structed of rough boards joined respectively 



n:£ 




Here is a section of the concrete tank showing method of construction. 
(References in text.) 

on their outer and inner sides by upright 
cleats (D). These boxes had their walls 
spaced apart a distance equal to the thick- 
ness of the walls to be formed, and were 
placed in position as soon as the bottom frame 
had been filled. They were fastened to- 



30 WATER-LILIES 

gether at the top and properly braced by strips 
(E) to prevent their springing under pressure, 
after which the space between them was 
filled with concrete, thoroughly packed. As 
soon as the material had sufficiently set, the 
inner box or core (C), and the top board of 
the outer box or casing, were removed, leaving 
the side-walls. The space outside the walls 
was then filled in and the coping frame was 
placed in position level with the tops of the 
walls. 

** A fining of sand and cement was applied 
to the inner faces of the bottom and side- 
walls, and the coping of the same material 
was formed upon the latter, the frame 
(E) constituting a guide in making the 
same. 

" The cost of the tank was as follows.- 

Labour on construction, 3 days at ^1.25 $ 3.75 

Labour for breaking stone 2.00 

Portland cement, 2^ bbls. 2it$i.Ss 4.63 

Pipes 90 

^11.28 
**In explanation it may be stated that the 



ECONOMICAL POND CONSTRUCTION 3 1 

digging of the hole required a full day, as 
the ground was hard-packed yellow clay, and 
a ledge of rock was encountered in one end. 
Moreover, the proportion of sand and cement 
employed was two to one, whereas a greater 
proportion of sand might have been employed 
with success. These increased the cost some- 
what. 

** The stone was picked up about the place, 
the sand was obtained in the immediate 
neighbourhood and, as already stated, waste 
and discarded lumber was employed, so 
that these materials, outside of the cost of 
breaking the stone, added nothing to the 
expense. 

"There is but one change or addition I 
would suggest to anyone who may construct 
a water garden along the above hnes. This 
one has a draw-off pipe at the bottom and an 
overflow pipe at the top. It would be pre- 
ferable, though not necessary, to have a 
third outlet from four to six inches below the 
overflow, to be closed in summer by a suitable 
plug and to be left open in winter, thus 



32 WATER-LILIES 

maintaining a lower level of the water during 
the cold season of the year." 

SIMPLE CLAY PUDDLING 

While puddled ponds are the most econom- 
ical to construct they probably require most 
in the way of repairs. Besides, they are 
possible only where the necessary material — 
a heavy clay — is ready at hand. The first 
steps of their construction are the same as 
for all other ponds, at least as far as locating 
and excavating are concerned; but from there 
onward the methods of procedure differ. For 
while both in natural ponds and in ponds 
built of concrete there is no trouble about 
their ability to hold water, an artificial pond, 
where no concrete has been used, must be 
made water-tight by special means. For 
such a purpose hydraulic engineering knows 
of no better material than puddled clay, clay 
which by a mechanical process has been made 
homogeneous and very plastic. Unless you 
absolutely feel the need of exercising your 



ECONOMICAL POND CONSTRUCTION ;^^ 

muscles it is better to get some unskilled 
labour to do this preparation. For, to reduce 
even a wheelbarrow load of clay to an ab- 
solutely homogeneous mass by working it 
over and over is no sinecure. 

This is the process: Clamp together several 
boards so as to make a platform, say 6 x lo ft. 
Spread the clay, a wheelbarrow load at a 
time, on the boards, and with a spade, chop it 
up thoroughly. No lumps larger than a 
walnut should remain. Remove all sticks, 
stones etc; then, adding a little water, begin 
to pound, using a wooden maul and do not 
stop pounding until a perfectly homogeneous 
mass, of the consistency of putty, has been 
obtained. When this is accompHshed start 
on the second load. Happily it is not neces- 
sary to use a layer more than four inches 
thick, so that for a pond twenty feet in 
length, and with an average width of ten feet, 
seven to eight wheelbarrow loads of puddled 
clay will be ample. The cost of this material 
is generally about five dollars, including 
hauling, puddling, etc. 



34 WATER-LILIES 

Having reduced the clay to the proper 
consistency, spread it evenly over the bottom 
of the pond, thoroughly beating it down as 
laid. 

The clay is fairly impervious to water and 
is not injured by freezing. The margins, 
from mean water level to a depth of twelve 
inches, may be lined with stones pounded 
into the clay. This prevents washing away 
by ripples or by moving ice. It is also 
advisable to cover the clay bottom with a 
few inches of sand so that the puddling may 
be protected and the mud not so easily 
stirred up. If this process is carried out 
consistently, an absolutely water-tight pond 
will result. The puddhng is carried up to 
within three inches of the rim. Overflow 
pipes (preferably one pipe with two open- 
ings), and a water faucet are to be arranged 
for beforehand. 

When an existing pond is to be converted 
for the growing of water-lihes, it must be our 
aim to provide for two things, the outline, 
and a proper depth of water at all times. The 




Notice the grassy margin, instead of concrete; the flowing, graceful outline 
instead of the unnatural circle or square; and the interesting hardy plants in the 
border, instead of the everlasting canna, castor oil, ageratum and other bedders 




A well planned and properly edged water garden, but too thickly planted: result, 
few scattering blooms, too solid foliage mass and loss of water effects 

Plate VIII.—ARTISTIC DESIGNS IN ARTIFICIAL PONDS 




The high rim of this basin is unnatural. It necessitates bold plant- 
ings around to give it a semi-formal setting 




Informal basin in the hollow of a lawn. When the stone margm 
is hidden, such a pond is ideal. Don't overplant 

Plate IX.— HOW TO TREAT A CONCRETE EDGE 



ECONOMICAL POND CONSTRUCTION 



35 



outline depends largely on surrounding con- 
ditions and no hard and fast rules can be 
laid down. The water level should be two 
feet above the bottom of the pond. Ordinarily 
this will necessitate the construction of a 
small dam which is easily constructed of 
grass sods. First empty the pond and then 
excavate to a depth of four feet where the dam 
is to be. Then put in the sod. Make the 
dam four feet wide at the base and at least 
two and one-half feet wide at the top, and 
thoroughly cover the sides with puddled clay. 

MAKING REPAIRS AND CLEANING 

It is often very desirable to drain a pond, 
in order to repair its walls, to clean it out, or 
to replant or take in tender species for the 
winter. Provision should be made for this. 
Both outlet and drain may be provided as 
follows: Lead a large (4- or 6-inch) pipe from 
the deepest part of the pond to some lower 
outlet — sewer or stream. In the pond attach 
an elbow joint so as to let the pipe turn 



36 WATER-LILIES 

vertically upward. Screw into the joint a 
piece of pipe just long enough to reach up to 
the desired water level. Now, when the 
tank is full, any overflow may go down the 
pipe and out. To empty the tank, it is 
necessary to unscrew the upright piece from 
the elbow. The outlet should in any case 
be covered with a wire net to prevent clogging 
of the drain, to retain fish, and to keep float- 
ing plants from being lost. 

Should the regular outlet be over a water- 
fall or dam, a large pipe may be laid in the 
lower part of this wall. A wooden plug at 
its inner end will close it on ordinary 
occasions, and can be removed when the pond 
is to be emptied. From small ponds the 
water can be dipped or siphoned out. 

PREVENTING FLOODS 

Where a natural pond is subject to a sudden 
increase in water volume, a water gate con- 
nected with an open ditch or culvert of suffi- 
cient size to divert the additional column of 



ECONOMICAL POND CONSTRUCTION -yj 

water must be built to obviate damage from 
floods. This sort of construction work is often 
complicated and had best be left to profes- 
sionals, as in the end it will most generally 
be found a good deal cheaper, and will save 
much annoyance and disappointment. 

If more than one pond is projected, connect 
them with each other by drains, making each 
a little lower than the preceding. With such 
an arrangement, water can be supplied from 
a fountain in the first pond, which may be 
entirely ornamental. This has the advantage 
that the sun's rays heat the water drops in 
falling. Further, since it is chiefly the sur- 
face water which is carried off, the water in 
the last pond will have the highest tempera- 
ture. This pond can then be selected for the 
growing of tender or heat-loving tropical 
nymphaeas, etc. Even the giant Victoria 
Cruziana does well in such an unheated 
pond in St. Louis, for example, but in more 
Northern regions, some means of artificial 
heating would have to be installed to help 
out. 



Soils and Planting Out 



CHAPTER III 

Soils and Planting Out 

One of the most seductive facts about a 
water garden is that so very Httle trouble is 
required to make a good showing. SeedHngs 
of water-HHes are less troublesome to handle 
than those of even the more common orna- 
mental plants, and they have the further 
advantage that in planting out there need be 
no fear of the weather being too hot, or the 
sun too bright. The one necessary precau- 
tion is not to plant too early, but to wait 
until warm weather is assured. This date 
will, of course, differ in different sections, and 
may vary somewhat from year to year, but 
generally in New York it is about June 15th 
for the tender kinds; the hardy ones can be 
set out in May. In St. Louis, a start can be 
made in April. Planting is done directly 
in the soil at the bottom of the pond or in 
41 



42 WATER-LILIES 

receptacles, either stationary or movable, 
according to conditions. 

FOR NATURAL PONDS 

In natural ponds and in puddled ponds, 
plant directly; the latter having first of all 
received a 12- to 15-inch thick layer of soil, 
consisting of a mixture of three parts heavy 
loam and one part thoroughly rotted cow 
manure, well stamped down. Then let in 
the water, till it stands three inches deep. 
After a couple of days, when the water has 
warmed a little, a beginning can be made 
with planting. 

The plants to be put out are either old ones 
carried over from the previous year, new 
tubers, or seedHngs started indoors in the 
winter. The work of planting out is sim- 
plicity itself. Tubers and root-stocks are 
laid flat in depressions in the soil made with 
the hand and are then pressed down. This 
covers them sufficiently. 

Young plants are taken from their pots. 



SOILS AND PLANTING OUT 43 

disturbing the soil around the roots as little 
as possible. Make a hole large enough to 
accommodate the earthball. Then put the 
plant in position, pressing down the earth so 
that a close contact is made between the 
earthball and the soil. Put the plants three 
to six feet apart, according to the space the 
adult ought to occupy, and await results. 

Seedlings are treated in a slightly different 
manner. First of all, do not plant, in one 
small pond, seedlings mixed with plants raised 
from tubers and root-stocks. If this is done, 
the seedlings will simply be overwhelmed, 
drowned indeed! They require a less depth 
of water to begin with, and a more gradual 
increase as the growth develops. If possible, 
put the seedlings in a special pond, where 
their needs can receive close attention; but 
should there be only one pond available, it 
must be so arranged that one portion is 
decidedly more shallow, or one of the green- 
house tanks placed out of doors can be used 
for the young plants. 

There is another advantage in this: Among 



44 WATER-LILIES 

the hundreds of seedHngs obtained from cross- 
fertilisation (if you are a hybridist) there 
will be but comparatively few which possess 
the desired qualities. After the first few 
flowers have appeared, weed out everything 
which does not show great promise, unless, 
of course, needed for some other purpose. 
Hence unknown seedlings can be planted 
closer together than others. Three feet 
between the rows and two feet between the 
plants in each row is ample. 

FOR CONCRETE PONDS 

Planting in receptacles, either stationary 
or movable, is necessary in concrete ponds. 
If the pond is large enough, stationary tubs, 
built of the same material as the pond, can 
be located here and there. They are well 
adapted to harbour nelumbiums whose root- 
stocks must be Hmited by some means if 
they are to be placed in a pond with other 
plants, as otherwise they will spread in an 
alarming manner. Indeed it is by far the 



SOILS AND PLANTING OUT 45 

best to avoid this difficulty by giving nelum- 
biums a pond to themselves. 

It is always best to have the ponds built with 
perfectly plain bottoms, as special receptacles 
can always be introduced as necessary to 
accommodate over-vigorous growers. The 
compartments may be of either brick or wood. 
When bricks are used, (except for nelum- 
biums) do not cement them together, but 
merely build a loose wall by arranging them 
in alternating layers. The shape of such 
receptacles will depend upon circumstances, 
that is to say, on the size and the kind of 
plant to be introduced and the taste of the 
builder. Their measurements ordinarily are 
made to vary from i x 2 ft. to 2 x 4 ft. The 
depth is always the depth of the pond. They 
will be found best adapted to hardy species 
of aquatic plants other than lilies, which 
ought to be set out during the early part of 
the year, like the water parsnip {Sium cicu- 
tcBfolium), the water poppy (Limnocharis 
HumboUtii), or the various species of Jus- 
sieua. A tank 24 feet long and 15 feet broad 



46 WATER-LILIES 

can accommodate six or eight of such brick 
tanks. Besides, such an arrangement leaves 
the bottom of the pond free. The space thus 
left can later be filled with boxes in which 
nymphaeas, etc., can be planted according to 
season. 

WHEN TO PLANT 

Hardy water-lilies may be planted at any 
time. If started in early spring they should 
bloom throughout the summer. 

Tender water-lilies must not go out of 
doors until warm weather is established. A 
cold storm often occurs in the first ten days of 
June (in the latitude of Philadelphia), and 
if it does it will sadly damage or destroy any- 
thing tender. Lotuses (Nelumbo) should be 
planted about the first of May. 

Where the pond is very large, or if but one 
variety of plant is to be grown, the roots may 
be allowed to run freely in the bottom of the 
pond. Ordinarily it is much preferable to 
plant in definite tubs or beds of wood or 




\ a w ater garden. Both " tender " and " hardy " water 

plants do so well, and grow so amazingly that they have to be thinned 




This style of pond is proper near buildings. Frankly formal, but 
adequate for its surroundings, and fitted to the accompanying archi- 
tecture. Not overplanted 

Plate X.— HARMONIES WITH THE LOCATIONS 




A puddled garden, where open water effects are not expected^ It resembles a slack 
^ water of a meadow, where plants grow thickly 




This IS an excellent arrangement. Tli. margin is low and unobtrusive. Plenty 
This IS an excel^^ ^^^y^^^f ^^ ^he water, with heavy background 

Plate XL-POOLS WITH OPEN SURROUNDINGS 



SOILS AND PLANTING OUT 47 

masonry, be they of whatever size or shape. 
If this is done the strong-growing kinds will 
not smother out the weak, and those which 
naturally spread rapidly will stay within 
proper limits. Lotus rhizomes may run 
thirty or forty feet in a season if not restricted. 

Floating plants, like water hyacinth, must 
be kept in place by means of floating wooden 
pens made fast to stakes. The pen, which 
should be made of inch-square or i x 2-inch 
lumber, will soon be hidden by vegetation. 

Loose moveable boxes are satisfactory 
because they not only allow the gardener to 
walk through the pond with ease, but they 
also permit the shifting of the various plants 
according to their individual needs, thus 
preventing the plants from becoming crowded. 
Their use is of course not limited to concrete 
ponds, for they can be employed equally in 
deep natural or puddled ponds. Make the 
boxes at least ten inches deep and two feet 
square, placing them in position a few days 
before planting. But in the case of small 
plants, it will be found better to set the plants 



48 WATER-LILIES 

in the boxes before placing the latter in 
position. 

PLANTING IN BASKETS 

In natural ponds where the bottoms are 
too soft to allow one to enter them, planting is 
accomplished by means of baskets. The 
tubers or plants are placed in the soil-filled 
receptacle, which is then lowered into posi- 
tion by means of a rope passed under the 
handle and held by two men on opposite sides 
of the pond. The basket soon falls to pieces 
and the roots easily find their way into the 
bottom soil. Only hardy species should be 
set out in such ponds since the roots cannot 
be recovered in the fall, and tender ones 
would be lost entirely. 

MAKING THE COMPOST 

The best soil for use in the boxes or tubs 
must be a heavy sod-soil mixed with well- 
rotted cow manure in proportions of three to 



SOILS AND PLANTING OUT 49 

one, but a mixture of equal parts good 
garden soil and well-rotted cow manure 
makes a good compost also. When setting 
out the plant spread out the roots well, and 
after filling in the soil cover with an inch of 
sand. If old cow manure is not available use 
ground bone — a small double handful is 
enough for one small tub. The sand for 
covering is not a necessity, but it serves to 
keep in place the earth and manure. 

One caution — do not use mud or swamp 
muck in the water garden; it contains much 
undecayed matter, which in decomposing 
causes some portions to float. 

After planting, raise the water level to from 
three to four inches above the crowns of the 
plants, gradually adding more to keep pace 
with the growth of the leafstalks, until 
finally the water level is brought up to from 
twelve to fifteen inches above the crowns of 
the plants. It is important that this is done 
gradually, as the sudden addition of a large 
amount of cold water is likely to chill and so 
check the lilies. 



50 WATER-LILIES 

Especially in the early part of the season 
there is liable to be an accumulation of scum 
largely composed of algae. A determined 
effort must be made to get rid of them. An 
excellent way to accomplish this is, on a warm 
day, to close all overflows and to allow the 
water to rise four inches above the highest 
outlet. Later this can be opened and all 
algae will be carried oflF, especially if a garden 
hose is called into requisition to clean out the 
margins and all corners where any growth 
may have lodged. This matter is further 
discussed in Chapter xiii. 

During the summer little care is required 
beyond the removal of dead leaves and an 
occasional flushing, at which time the water 
level, which may have fallen through evapora- 
tion, must be reestabhshed. 



Wintering and Propagating 



CHAPTER IV 
Wintering and Propagating 

The hardy water-lilies give no trouble in 
winter as they are simply left outdoors where 
they grew. They take care of themselves! 
Natural ponds must perforce remain undis- 
turbed; artificial ponds can have some water 
drained off, and in places where the winter 
cold is likely to be very intense, the plants 
can be covered with planks, hay, leaves or 
any other protective material ready at hand. 
Where hardy nymphaeas have been grown in 
tubs plunged in the ground, a simple covering 
with hay is sufficient. Loose tubs can either 
be plunged in the ground or removed to a 
cool cellar. When spring returns, the cover- 
ing is removed at the same time as it is taken 
off other garden plants; the tubs can be 
brought from the cellar in March. 

On the other hand, wintering the tender, 
53 



54 WATER-LILIES 

day blooming water-lilies is really a difficult 
matter, requiring some skill and a good deal 
of space. Full-grown plants may be taken up 
bodily before frost, either in their tubs, or 
with a big ball of earth, and wintered in a 
large, warm tank indoors — there they will 
keep on blooming, with plenty of heat and 
light; or will merely keep alive in lower 
temperatures. Plants which have grown 
large and flowered, will not live over in any 
other way, excepting ISfymphcea flavo-virens 
and its kin. Usually, therefore, the old 
plants are left outside to die; but the tubers 
may be collected. 

The night bloomers are wintered more 
easily than the tender day bloomers. The 
plants may be taken from the pond either 
in their tubs, or with a large ball of earth, in 
October, and allowed to dry off slowly. In 
a month's time there should remain from 
each plant one or two small tubers. Some- 
times the tuber is smooth and oval; some- 
times it is of a very irregular shape. It is 
kept in dry sand as prescribed for the day 



WINTERING AND PROPAGATING 55 

blooming kinds. In February or March the 
tuber is planted in sand and sunk in a warm 
tank. Soon it sends out a host of shoots. 
These mature one by one. They may be 
broken off and potted separately as soon as 
they have one or two floating leaves. Each 
tuber, therefore, of the night blooming water- 
lilies will produce enough plants to stock a 
large pond. It is a wise precaution to keep 
one or two plants in small pots all summer, 
just to form tubers. The old plants some- 
times rot completely when taken in. 

Tender nymphaeas that are to be carried 
over the winter for another season must be 
taken up before there is a chance of a kilHng 
frost, that is between October 15th and 30th. 
If possible, drain the pond of enough water to 
facilitate the work, removing the leaves from 
the plants and cutting off the roots about 
a foot from the centre. Then take up the 
plants with as much soil as will cling to them. 

The best winter quarters for the tender 
nymphaeas is under the bench of a greenhouse 
with a temperature of from 60° to 65° F. 



56 WATER-LILIES 

With the mud cHnging to them they show no 
differences. But most of the stellata type, 
such as NymphcBa ccerulea, have a central 
crown only, while others have one large and 
a varying number of smaller tubers. These 
mature during the next month or so, finally 
going into a dormant condition. Many of 
the stellata type produce tubers very sparingly 
and it is often necessary to retain the old 
rhizome. This old rhizome, however, has a 
tendency to rot during the winter when 
placed under the greenhouse bench, to pre- 
vent which it must be kept in a growing con- 
dition. This is best accomplished by potting 
it into a 7-inch pot, which is then submerged 
in a tank in the greenhouse, only a slight 
covering of water being essential. By the 
next spring the plant will be found ready to 
make a vigorous growth. 

SORTING OVER THE STOCK 

About the middle of January look over 
the collection to see what can be saved and 



WINTERING AND PROPAGATING 57 

what must be thrown away. In this the 
greatest care must be exercised as many of 
the most valuable types produce tubers often 
not larger than a pea. 

While sorting the tubers, carefully remove 
the mud clinging to them, taking care not to 
injure the eyes. Then place them in rather 
dry sand, where they can remain till the time 
comes to start them into growth. 

THE season's OPENING 

The new season's work begins about 
March ist, when the tubers must be taken 
from the sand storage and potted up, accord- 
ing to size, in a 3- or 5-inch pot. Use a plain, 
heavy loam without adding either sand, 
leaf-soil or manure, but a httle sand may be 
placed on the surface of the soil after potting 
is done. This will help to keep the plant 
free from algal growth, and to a certain extent 
prevent the accumulation of scum on top of 
the water. 

The pots containing the tubers must be 



58 WATER-LILIES 

kept in water. For this purpose galvanised 
iron tanks painted with red lead are best. 
Tanks of wood may serve, but have a 
tendency to leak. Besides, they are awkward 
to handle. Copper tanks do not give good 
results. A tank six feet long and four feet 
broad, with a height of about nine inches 
will be found most ^serviceable. These can be 
obtained at a cost of from six to eight dollars. 
The tanks must be flushed every day or two, 
to remove any matter which might float on 
the surface and prove injurious to the young 
plants. 

As soon as a plant gets too big for its pot, 
shift it into a size larger and continue to do 
this up to 7-inch pots. Never let a plant 
suffer from need of shifting. Giving a plant 
room and the best opportunities in early life, 
will largely counteract the effects of adverse 
conditions when it is older. This is a funda- 
mental rule in water-lily growing which 
never should be lost sight of by the grower. 
It is all-important. 

For various reasons it may be impossible 



WINTERING AND PROPAGATING 59 

to obtain seed of some plants. Many of the 
hardy nymphaeas produce it but rarely. 

MAKING TUBERS TO PROPAGATE 

Many hybrids are practically sterile, and 
must be propagated from the "roots.'' The 
same method may also be used for the true 
species. Indeed, one can never depend on 
the purity of seed where several kinds have 
been grown in the same tank. Natural 
hybrids are common. For pure stock of 
tender water-lilies we must commonly have 
recourse to the following method, beginning 
a year in advance: 

A young plant of the desired kind is kept 
all summer in a 6-inch pot, in very shallow 
water. It will make good growth for some 
time, and then all the leaves will die off. If 
this does not occur naturally, it must be 
induced in August or early September, by 
raising the plant to the surface of the water, or 
partly out. When the leaves are gone, a 
tuber the size of a robin's egg should be 



6o WATER-LILIES 

found in the pot. Now remove the pot from 
the water, and let it become nearly dry. Take 
out the tuber, place it in clean sand, and keep 
it in a moist, temperate, or warm greenhouse 
atmosphere until next March. Never let 
the tuber get hard and desiccated, nor should 
it get really wet. It needs only a gentle 
air-drying. 

Now, to propagate, set pot and sand and 
tuber in a warm tank in March. The tuber 
should be planted about an inch deep. Soon 
a shoot comes out, sends up leaves to the 
surface of the water, and makes roots. When 
one good floating leaf is established, wash 
away the sand from roots and tuber, care- 
fully break off the shoot with its roots from 
the apex of the tuber, and replant both 
plantlet and tuber. Of course the plantlet 
now goes into rich earth. The tuber should 
give off at least one more shoot. The first 
plant is pushed forward for flowering, the next 
is kept to form a tuber for the following year. 

The easiest tender nymphaeas to grow, to 
keep over winter, and to increase from the 



WINTERING AND PROPAGATING 01 

tuber, are N. flavo-virens, N. Wm. Stone, 
and N, Mrs. C. W. Ward. The easiest to 
grow from seeds are the blue lotus, Zanzibar 
water-lily, and Nymphcea flavo-virens. 

WINTERING ENTIRE PLANTS 

It may even be necessary to keep the plant 
itself over the winter. This course is followed 
in case of seedHng water-Klies which, during 
the year, have not advanced sufficiently to 
produce either seed or tuber. Though tubers 
have been formed, they may be immature and 
likely to decay before the next spring and it 
then becomes necessary to resort to other 
methods to retain the variety. 

The experienced grower readily foresees 
which particular plant is liable to be in this 
undesirable condition in the fall and lays 
his plans accordingly. As soon as he has 
decided that the plant is worth keeping — 
something which usually can be foretold in 
late summer — he digs it up and repots in 
a shallow box, five to six inches deep and 



62 WATER-LILIES 

about two feet square or even larger. After 
boxing, the plant is returned to the pond, 
where it will continue to grow until fall, at 
which time it can be transported bodily to a 
tank in the greenhouse. By keeping the water 
in the tank at ordinary greenhouse tempera- 
ture, that is to say, 60° to 65° F., growth will 
not be interrupted, though somewhat 
retarded, and the tubers have an opportunity 
to mature. Following this method, it is 
highly probable that in the spring we will not 
only have the parent plant but likewise a 
number of small tubers, which will bloom 
the same season. 

The temperature of the water in these 
growing tanks should be about the same as 
that of the house in which they are placed, 
that is to say, about 65° F. A little more 
heat is desirable for ISf ymphcea Sturtevantiiy 
and a greenhouse pipe may be passed through 
the tank to supply the requirement. In an 
emergency, heating the tank with a coal-oil 
stove placed under it may be resorted to, but 
cannot be recommended as a general rule. 



WINTERING AND PROPAGATING 63 

Keep the water level so that the edges of 
the pots are about two inches below the sur- 
face. When the leaves appear, keep them 
just floating, using blocks underneath to 
regulate the heights of the pots. 



Seed Saving and Starting 



CHAPTER V 

Seed Saving and Starting 

Ordinarily nymphaea flowers open and 
close on from three to five consecutive days, 
though in the latter part of the season, v^hen 
the nights get colder, the total time may be 
prolonged and flowers remain expanded 
throughout; the day bloomers remaining 
open all night and the night bloomers remain- 
ing open during the daytime. But once the 
petals of a nymphaea flower have finally 
closed, the head sinks under water, there 
to remain, if fertilised, from three to five 
weeks, during which time the seed develops. 

When the capsule is ripe it bursts, and the 

seed, rising to the surface of the water, is 

scattered over the pond, where it floats during 

the ensuing twenty-four hours, and then sinks 

to the bottom. The floating seed may be 

gathered with a fine dipnet. But this entails 
67 



68 WATER-LILIES 

considerable trouble, and there is no means 
of knowing exactly which plant yielded the 
seed just collected. 

To prevent the mixing of seed, it is suffi- 
cient to tie a cheese-cloth bag over the flower 
on its last day of blooming. The bag should 
be tied to a stick stuck in the earth beside 
the plant, in order to prevent it from being 
washed away by water currents or carried off 
by fishes. When the ripe capsule opens, the 
seed will then be retained in the bag and may 
readily be gathered. Each plant may carry 
two or three capsules. 

The largest and best seed is that harvested 
just after mid-summer. Special precautions 
must be taken in ripening seed of a weak 
plant. If one such, starting to bloom, shows 
indications of special merit, and it is desired 
to save seed from it, the earlier blooms must 
be sacrificed. Constantly cut off the flower 
buds as they appear until such a time as the 
plant has assumed a more vigorous growth, 
and even then it is wise to allow but a couple 
of capsules to mature, thus increasing the 



SEED SAVING AND STARTING 69 

food supply of the seed. It is a matter of 
common observation that well-nourished seed 
yields the most satisfactory results. 

The bagged capsule and seed, after being 
collected, may remain unopened and, properly 
labelled, can be put in an open dish in a 
draughty place away from the direct sun. 
When all is perfectly dry, place each capsule 
in a fresh clean bag, keeping it in a con- 
venient place, neither too moist nor too warm, 
until the seed is wanted for sowing. This 
rule is to be followed for all nymphaeas 
except those of the Castalia (odorata) group, 
which must be kept in water in a cool place. 

The middle of January — and not before 
— is the time for sowing seed of all the water- 
liHes. A house temperature of 65° F. is 
necessary. Use glazed pans of convenient 
size, containing about three inches of heavy 
loam, nothing else. Sprinkle a little sand 
on the surface to give the young plant a hold. 
Then fill the pan with water and sprinkle the 
seed on top. It will float for two or three 
days and then sink. 



70 WATER-LILIES 

In from three to seven weeks the first, 
threadlike, seed leaves make their appearance. 
Three to four weeks later the third leaf will 
have been produced. This is the time to 
transplant the seedHngs. Put them singly 
in 2-inch pots, shifting later into 3-inch 
pots and using in both instances a soil 
composed of heavy loam with which a little 
most thoroughly rotted cow manure has been 
mixed. Do not use leafsoil or any other 
light material. From this time the treatment 
of seedHngs is identical with that of the young 
plants obtained by vegetative propagation 
(tubers, or rhizomes), and the whole lot may 
be grown on together under exactly simi- 
lar conditions, even in the same tank. 

All the true species of tender day-blooming 
nymphaeas seed freely, and may be easily 
raised from seed. These are N. gtgantea, 
elegansy gracilis^ ampla, Capensts, Zanzt- 
bariensts, versicolor, and ccerulea. Sow the 
seeds in February, in small pots or pans, 
cover them lightly with sand, and keep in 
warm water, about 80° F. When the plants 



SEED SAVING AND STARTING 7 1 

have produced three or four leaves each, 
prick off into separate 3-inch pots, with 
rich earth, and keep them in warm tanks, 
with plenty of sunshine. Let them grow as 
fast as possible, and repot when necessary. 
Harden off a little in cooler water before 
setting out. When set out they should have 
about three leaves, from three to six inches 
across. Persons who have no accommoda- 
tions for all this will do best to purchase 
plants. They are not very costly. 



Raising New Varieties 



73 



CHAPTER VI 
Raising New Varieties 

To THE thorough-going water-lily enthu- 
siast, hybridising and pedigree-culture, which 
enable him to trace completely the ancestry 
of his plants and the influence of the various 
crosses, are the greatest hobbies. 

Where hybridisation has been attempted 
during the previous season, it is highly 
probable that some of the seedlings will show 
the blending of parental characters. Such 
plants are of course the ones to be chosen for 
the purpose of propagation, either by seed 
or from offshoots. 

Though the cultivation of water-lilies has 
attracted widespread attention since the 
middle of the last century, but very httle is 
known about the Hmits of variation of the 
specific characters, and a scientific discussion 
of the various hybrids (using the word in its 
75 



76 WATER-LILIES 

widest sense so as to include both crosses 
between species and those between varieties) 
is a subject that the scientific botanist prefers 
to evade. In the Monograph of the Genus 
Nymphaea (by Henry S. Conard), pubHshed 
by the Carnegie Institute in 1905, a large 
number of hybrids whose names have ap- 
peared from time to time in various horti- 
cultural pubHcations are fully discussed. 
Too often financial considerations or the 
fond belief in the undoubted success of an 
attempted cross have led to the publication 
of the most high-sounding, frequently most 
ridiculous, claims. Much regret would have 
been spared had this fundamental rule of 
hybridisation been remembered: that by 
crossing, new characters, z. e. characters not 
existing in the ancestors, can not be pro- 
duced. The most careful scrutiny of the 
entire horticultural field shows but few 
apparent exceptions to this rule and they are 
often susceptible of other explanation.* 

* An example of a wholly new character is the notch in the sinus 
of the leaf of N. Robinsoni. H. S. C. 



RAISING NEW VARIETIES 77 

Without going into details, it may be said 
that the main object of hybridisation is to 
combine in the offspring the characters of the 
parents. This is brought about by the 
artificial fertilisation of the stigma of a 
flower of one parent with the pollen obtained 
from the other parent. Among many water- 
lily growers the prevailing custom is to dip 
under water the flower of the intended female 
parent on the first day of opening, with the 
intention of removing any pollen which may 
be present and then shaking over the stigma 
the ripe contents of the anthers of the flower 
intended as the male parent. Numerous 
objections may be urged against this method. 
Not only is the dipping of the female flower 
of doubtful necessity but if the operation is 
successful there is no means of knowing 
whether the seed which forms is really the 
result of fertilisation by the pollen selected, 
or a consequence of fertilisation by the pollen 
of the female parent itself, or even of pollen 
carried by insects to the flower on the same 
or any ensuing day. 



78 WATER-LILIES 

If we are to arrive at satisfactory results 
and wish to save ourselves a large amount of 
unnecessary trouble incident to the growing 
of seedlings without value, we must protect 
ourselves against such contingencies. For 
this reason, two precautions are taken: the 
exclusion of insects from the flowers to be 
used and the removal of the stamens of the 
female parent. The first object is best 
arrived at by enclosing the flowers, before 
they open, in a bag of muslin, which must be 
finer than mosquito-netting, thus preventing 
the access of foreign pollen. 

Hybridisation must not be attempted in 
the early part of the summer since but few of 
the pods mature their seeds then. It is better 
to wait till August. Almost infertile hybrids, 
if they mature any pods at all, do so in the 
latter part of the season only. 

Our operations commence by ascertaining 
if the plant which we desire to cross is capable 
of producing seed. If the flowers are fertile 
the presence of a few fertilised ovules is 
sufficient to influence the movements of the 



RAISING NEW VARIETIES 79 

peduncle which carries the young pod under 
water and frequently to a comparatively 
great depth. The manner in which this is 
done varies in the different groups. If the 
flowers are not fertile, they are hardly carried 
below the surface of the water and soon decay, 
as does the peduncle. Such plants are, of 
course, to be avoided, unless indeed one wishes 
to try the influence of a particular kind of 
pollen in the hope that its use may bring 
about fertility. 

When the water-lily flower opens, the 
stigmatic cup in the centre is filled with a sweet 
watery fluid, secreted mainly by the stigma, 
which is receptive at the time. Not until the 
second day, after opening, is the pollen ripe 
and liberated by the spHtting of the anthers. 
Therefore, as fertilisation should take place 
on the day the flower of the female parent 
opens, the flower which is to act as male 
parent (and which must be two days farther 
advanced) is previously selected and covered 
by a musHn bag, which should be large enough 
to allow the enclosed flower to open fully. 



8o WATER-LILIES 

On Its first day a flower opens about an 
hour later than on the following days, also 
closing earlier but opening only half as wide. 

On the first day that the flower of the 
female parent is open, all the stamens must 
be removed. This requires a little skill and 
practice. At the same time the stigma can 
be fertilised with the pollen of the male parent 
selected 48 hours earlier. After the operation 
the muslin bag is replaced, to remain 
indefinitely. 

The best way to obtain the pollen is to cut 
oflP the flower and take it indoors. After 
removing the musHn bag, the flower is in- 
verted and the pollen shaken on to a piece of 
paper. An excellent receptacle for the pollen 
is a watch-glass with another watch-glass for 
cover. Or the Hd of a porcelain crucible 
about li to 2 inches wide may be used for 
this purpose and is very serviceable especially 
when fastened to a small flat stick such as an 
8-inch label. From this the pollen is trans- 
ferred to the stigma, either by simple shaking 
or with the aid of a dry camel's-hair brush. 



RAISING NEW VARIETIES 8l 

The stigmatic surface, ordinarily yellow in 
colour, is more or less cup-shaped. The 
pollen is shaken into the contained fluid, 
which shortly afterward will be found to 
have been absorbed and the pollen remains 
stranded on the papillar surface of the 
stigma. 

If fertilisation is successful the ovary 
begins to swell within eight days. If un- 
successful, there is no swelling and the flower, 
remaining near the surface of the water, soon 
decays. It is well to cut off two or three 
flowers immediately following the one just 
fertiHsed, thus insuring greater supply of food. 
The seed is harvested and handled subse- 
quently as told in the chapter on " seed saving 
and starting. " 

Different results are often obtained by 
using one species as male and the other as 
female parent and vice versa, for which 
reason a cross should always be attempted 
both ways. 

While any of the results obtained may be 
propagated indefinitely in a vegetative manner 



82 WATER-LILIES 

it will also pay to raise plants from the seed 
of one-year-old hybrids, since some of the 
most experienced growers claim that it is in 
the second generation that some of the best 
results appear. 

The genealogy of but few of the hybrids 
now in cultivation can be indicated with any 
degree of certainty. This is especially the 
case where the records were in the possession 
of a single individual who, for trade-reasons, 
was unwilling to communicate his knowledge. 
At the same time identical results have been 
produced at different times and in different 
countries, and natural hybrids are of common 
occurrence where closely related species are 
growing together. 

It was about the middle of the nineteenth 
century that the first attempts at hybridisa- 
tion were made. The first reputed hybrid, 
N. Devoniensis^ was exhibited in England 
and was claimed to be the result of a cross 
between ISf . rubra and A^. Lotus, It is 
doubtful, however, whether a cross actually 
took place and now it is generally beheved 



RAISING NEW VARIETIES 83 

as far more probable that N. rubra was self- 
fertilised. 

In 1852 and 1853 hybrids between varieties 
of N. Lotus and ISf . rubra, the latter acting 
as seed-parent, were obtained in both Belgium 
and Germany. Much later, in 1885, N. Lotus 
was used as female parent and fertilised with 
pollen of A^. Devoniensis. The result was 
N. Kewensis. Though the plant was not 
propagated, identical plants were later ob- 
tained in America where the offspring persists 
under the same name. 

In America much excellent work has been 
done. Especially the development of the 
Brachyceras group has received much atten- 
tion. Though in Germany, in the early 
sixties. Professor Caspary had devoted much 
attention to this group, the results obtained 
were not preserved and it remained for 
Mr. W. Tricker to originate most of the 
hybrids now belonging to this group. But 
the Lotus group also received its share and 
it is to such men as Gurney, Tricker, Stur- 
tevant, Bissett, Grey and Ames that we are 



84 WATER-LILIES 

indebted for the best results. Especially 
noteworthy in the group are the descendants 
of N. Omarana. This, obtained by Bissett 
in 1894, is itself a hybrid of complicated 
parentage. Its direct parents are N. dentata 
and N. Sturtevantii. The delicate pink of 
its flower has gradually been deepened 
through successive crossings. As an instance 
of the gradual deepening of colour we may 
mention a series of crosses carried out by Mr. 
James Gurney, at Tower Grove Park, St. 
Louis. In 1902, by crossing a AT. Devon- 
iensis with N. Omarana, he obtained a 
crimson-flowered plant, very much like N. 
Devoniensis in appearance, which he named 
N. Frank Trelease. He then attempted to 
introduce the h\ue co\o\xv o{ N .Zanzibar i ens is, 
fertilising N. Frank Trelease with the pollen 
of the blue one. In 1905 he obtained a 
splendid night bloomer which, while possess- 
ing the dark-brown foliage of N. Frank 
Trelease, had a dark magenta flower, per- 
ceptibly shaded with blue. Continuing the 
experiment, this plant was again pollenated 





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RAISING NEW VARIETIES 85 

with M, Zanzihariensisy which cross, in 1906, 
yielded a plant with flowers in which the 
petals were dark magenta overlaid with 
bluish purple.* 

An immense field of absorbing interest 
awaits him who with care and patience will 
devote time to the hybridisation of water- 
Hlies. For as yet we are but at the beginning 
of things and but Httle has been done, com- 
paratively speaking. 



* Mr. Conard does not admit that a real hybridisation occurs in 
these cases. These plants and Mr. Sturtevant's iV. tuberosa, var. 
rubra need minute investigation. 



The Hardy Water-lilies 



87 



CHAPTER VII 

The Hardy Water-lilies 

If one water-lily only can be selected for 
such a small effort as a two foot square pool, 
such for instance as might be provided by 
a half kerosene barrel, the little Chinese 
pigmy water-lily, Nymphcea tetragona, will 
be the most satisfactory, because it will 
quickly cover the water with its small 
horseshoe-shaped leaves. These are dark 
green, with faint and picturesque brown 
blotches on the upper surface, dull red 
beneath, and the combination is rich in colour. 
Then again, it is a good plant for flowering — 
a good specimen will keep up a continuous 
succession of its little star-like flowers through- 
out the season, from June to September. 
Often two or three flowers will be open at 
once. The eight or ten snowy petals sur- 
round a group of stout golden stamens, and 
89 



90 



WATER-LILIES 



in the centre is a broad, yellow, basin-shaped 
stigma. The flower opens each day about 
noon and closes again at five in the afternoon, 
repeating this on three or four successive 
days. It exhales a delicate fragrance, Hke 
that of a tea rose. 

If a change from the pure white is wanted 
we may choose one of the smaller hybrids 
of the pigmy water-lily. For bright yellow 
take the yellow pigmy {Nymphcea tetragona, 
var. helvola)y similar in size and in habit of 
growth, but the flower is bright yellow and 
the leaves are very heavily blotched with 
distinct reddish-brown patches. It gets these 
characteristics from the native Mexican water- 
hly (N. Mexicana), which is found in Florida, 
Texas and Mexico. This is a very peculiar 
species, scarcely hardy as far north as Phila- 
delphia, and certainly cannot be classed as 
a hardy garden plant. For, though it will 
exist in water of a depth of three feet, it will 
not bloom if left continuously out of doors. 
It is a shy bloomer even at its best. 

For those who prefer pink there is the 



THE HARDY WATER-LILIES 9 1 

Laydeker's pink pigmy {N ymphcea Lay- 
dekeri, var. rosed), another hybrid of the 
Chinese water-hly. It resembles its Chinese 
parent in size, habit and character of leaf. 
The flowers, however, which are produced 
in great numbers, are more cup-shaped. 
When the flower first opens the petals are of 
a delicate shell pink. On subsequent days 
the inner petals change to rose, and finally 
to a deep carmine-rose colour; and usually 
there are two or three flowers of different ages 
open at once. 

These three pigmy varieties are neat 
enough in all surety, but will only be chosen 
for a small tank or a Japanese garden, where 
everything is done on a miniature scale. 

FOR GARDENS OF FOUR FEET SQUARE 

In the next sized garden, where four feet 
square or perhaps more can be given to a 
plant, a very wide choice presents itself. 
We may now have white, yellow, pink, 
orange or deep-red flowers, and, whereas 



92 WATER-LILIES 

in the very small gardens we have to be con- 
tent with flowers about two inches, we will 
now be able to grow some six or eight inches 
across. 

For the smaller spaces, of say two to four 
feet square, MarHac's yellow {N ymphcea 
Marliacea, var. chromatella), the N. Laydekeri 
varieties and N. exquisita will do well. But 
the great majority will not do their best on a 
water surface less than four feet square. 

The first named (chromatella) is decidedly 
the hardiest and most satisfactory of all the 
garden water-Hlies. It is also one of the 
oldest, dating from about 1888. The flower 
is bright yellow, and on its first day sits Hke 
a golden cup on the water. It has other very 
decided claims to favour: A single stock will 
give a continuous bloom from the first of 
June until frost, and often there will be two 
flowers open at once. The leaves usually 
float on the water, and are beautifully mottled 
with reddish brown. But in shallow water, 
or when crowded, both leaves and flowers 
rise several inches into the free air and grow 




The most double of all the white water-lilies (Nymph^a Richardson!). It does 
best in about three feet of water. The flowers are not odorous 




The sweet-scented water-lily has good garden varieties or hybrids. Nymphaa 
Luciano here shown is rosy pink and twice as large as the common white ones 



Plate XIV.— SOME OF THE BEST HARDY KINDS— I 




N. Marliacea, var. ro%ea, one of two red French hybrid water-lilies. Both are 
rank-growing plants, often raising both leaves and flowers above the water 




Nymphisa alba, war. candidissima, the best of all the water-lilies for deep 
ponds. One of the early bloomers, and it flowers from June to frost 

Plate XV.— SOME OF THE BEST HARDY KINDS— II 



THE HARDY WATER-LILIES 93 

with a look of rank luxuriance. The plant 
increases rapidly in favourable circumstances, 
so that the possessor of a single shoot will 
soon be able to supply his neighbours. It is 
perfectly hardy, even in water so shallow 
that it must certainly freeze to the bottom. 
The fragrant yellow water-lily (N. odorata, 
var. sulphured) is more delicate, and is easily 
distinguished when out of flower because the 
blotched leaves are always floating. The 
flower is composed of slender spreading 
petals. Its chief interest Hes in the fact that 
it is the offspring of two native species (N, 
odorata and N. Mexicana). 

SOME REALLY GOOD WHITE HYBRIDS 

Among whites none of the wild species is 
suflBciently free-flowering to win a place in a 
small collection. We have, however, some 
superb varieties. Possibly N. Gladstoniana 
is the best of these. It is thoroughly hardy 
and a strong grower. The leaves are of a 
rich green colour, and may reach ten or 



94 WATER-LILIES 

twelve inches across. Of the flower what 
shall be said ? Its many snowy petals stand 
out in all directions, making an airy sphere of 
glistening whiteness six or eight inches in 
diameter. The flower opens early in the 
morning and does not close until two or three 
o'clock in the afternoon, and often reappears 
on four successive days. The plant will 
give a goodly number also from a single shoot 
in a season, though there must be three or 
four shoots to insure continuous bloom. The 
only quality that this water-lily lacks is a 
sweet scent. 

Similar to this in its flower is the white 
Marliac lily {N. Marliacea, var. alhidd), a 
very rank grower, which often raises its 
dark-green leaves and flowers well above 
the water. 

A GROUP OF REDS AND ROSES 

There are two red-flowered Marliac lilies of 
identical habit with the preceding, but one 
{N. M., var carnea) has Hght, pearly, pink 



THE HARDY WATER-LILIES 95 

flowers, the other {N. M., var. rosea) is deep 
rose. None of the three can be said to bloom 
freely. N. Wm. Doogue resembles N. M., 
var. carnea, but has larger flowers, sometimes 
six inches across, and rather more of them. 
It is of American origin, while all the N. Mar- 
liacea and Laydekeri varieties are French and 
take their group names from their raisers. 

THE CAPE COD WATER-LILY 

The flowers have the slender, graceful 
petals of the common white pond-lily and the 
delicious scent of that species, but are of a 
beautiful rose-pink colour. As in the type 
species the flowers open about 6 a. m. or 
earlier and close about noon, but this variety 
has the peculiarity of keeping its sepals 
continuously open. The closed flower there- 
fore forms an ovate mass of pink, stand- 
ing on a four-rayed star of dull white. It is 
a shy bloomer, and must be raised in con- 
siderable numbers to give a good eff'ect. It 
is impatient of the summer heat of Phila- 



96 WATER-LILIES 

delphia even, but does well in its chief habitat, 
Cape Cod. One of the Marliac group, 
called N. exqutstta, is a more vigorous and 
more floriferous variety. 

THE DEEP RED WATER-LILIES 

The flowers of the deep-red varieties are 
more or less cup-shaped, /. e., the petals 
are erect and concave. From a pale pink 
on the outermost petals the colour deepens 
toward the centre of the flower to a deep 
crimson. The stamens are crimson or deep 
orange red on the outer face, with bright- 
orange or yellow anther cells. In full sun- 
shine the eflPect is rich and striking. The 
plants are strong growers for the most part, 
but slow to propagate. They produce a 
fine circle of large round leaves and a goodly 
number of their magnificent blooms, which 
often reach five or six inches across. 

The splendid colouring of this group is 
derived from the Swedish water-lily {N. alba, 
var. ruhra)y which is very hard to tame. It 








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THE HARDY WATER-LILIES 97 

has been grown with tolerable success in 
northern New York and in Massachusetts, 
but is not to be recommended. N. sanguinea 
has flowers of rosy, purple-spotted carmine; 
Laydekeri purpurata is rosy crimson with 
orange-red stamens; Wm. Falconer, bright 
garnet and as much as seven inches across, 
perhaps the most gorgeous of the lot; 
James Gurney, smaller and dark rose, and 
James Brydon are among the best known 
of these. 

RED AND YELLOW BLENDS 

A distinct and beautiful series of varieties 
in which red and yellow are blended has been 
produced by combining the Swedish water- 
lily with our native yellow water-lily {N. 
Mextcana). The eflPect of the deep red in 
the centre of the flower with pale yellow on 
the outer petals is extremely striking. The 
brown blotching of the leaves which is seen 
in most of these red-yellow water-lilies is 
inherited from the American parent. For 



98 WATER-LILIES 

small gardens or where one does not want 
to get off with a minimum of labour these 
are ideal plants. They do not spread rapidly 
but maintain a single strong shoot, from 
which an ample supply of leaves and flowers 
arises. 

N. Robins oni and N. Setgnoreti are the 
oldest and best known of this group. The 
former bears a peculiar *' ear-mark," by 
which it may always be recognised. As in all 
the nymphaeas, the leaf is round, and attached 
to the petiole near the centre. On the basal 
side a deep cleft divides the leaf from the 
margin, nearly or quite to the petiole. The 
borders of this cleft are very constantly smooth 
and entire. But in N. Rohinsoni there is a 
peculiar crimped notch on each side, midway 
of the cleft; it also has floating flowers, where- 
as those of its companion stand six inches 
above the water. 

The bright combination of yellow, orange 
and red which characterises the flowers of 
this group is suggested by the name of one of 
the most recent members, N. Aurora, the 



THE HARDY WATER-LILIES 99 

flowers of which, opening with a yellowish 
colour, get redder and redder as they age. 

If you have a large pond there will be room 
for the less floriferous varieties. The com- 
mon pond-Hly {N. odorata), unequalled for 
sweetness, may be planted. Words cannot 
picture a large bed of this in full bloom. It 
is one of those things that one must see to 
know its beauty and charm. The northern 
N. tuherosa is a more rampant grower, and 
indeed it will take complete possession of the 
pond if not opposed. Its flowers are large, 
pure white, but scentless and few in number. 
Ample space will also make it well worth 
while to plant N. odorata, var. rosea, the pink 
Cape Cod variety. The fact that it makes 
few flowers to a shoot is lost sight of in a 
large pond. 

In the shallows N. odorata, var. minor 
will do well. It is a diminutive odorata, 
which can get on fairly well even if the water 
completely dries away from around it. 

Those hitherto mentioned will as a rule 
give best results in water having a depth of 



100 WATER-LILIES 

from one to two feet above the root-stocks; but 
N, odorata and N. tuherosa, it is true, will 
stand three or four feet. But for depths of 
two to five feet ISf. alba, var. candidtssima 
is recommended. Large plants of this will 
make a wide spread of lo-inch leaves, 
and will produce splendid white flowers from 
the first of June until frost. This is one of 
the earliest bloomers in spring. It is exceed- 
ingly strong and hardy. 

For depths of water up to eight or ten feet 
the giant Southern pond-lily {N . odorata, 
var. gigantea) is best. It is little more than 
a large odorata. The leaves reach a foot or 
more in diameter, the flowers four or five 
inches. 

The following table will aid in identifying 
any of the hardy kinds. 

KEY TO THE HARDY WATER-LILIES 

Flowers yellow. 

Opening ii to 12 a. m. 

Spreading by runners N. Mexican a 

Without runners N. tetragonal var. helvola 



THE HARDY WATER-LILIES 1 01 

Opening from 7 to 8 a. m. 

Petals broad, concave; flower cup-shaped, 

N. MarliaceOy var chromatella 

Petals narrow, spreading N. oJorata, var. 

sulphured and N. sulphurea, var. grandiflora 
Flowers pure white. 

Leaves ovate, small N. tetragona 

Leaves circular. 

Strongly sweet-scented. 

Flowers 2-5 in. across; Ivs. 4-8 in. ... AT", odorata 
Flowers 1-3 in. across; Ivs. 3-5 in. N. o., var. minor 
Flowers 3-6 in. across; Ivs. 8-12 in 

N. o., var. gigantea 
Odourless or nearly so. 

Petiole marked with longitudinal brown stripes, 

N. tuberosa 

Flowers very double. N. t., var. Richardsonii 

Petiole uniformly coloured. 

Sepals rounded to the receptacle. 

Always sterile: 

Flowers and leaves rising from the water, 

N. Marliacea, var. albida 

Flowers and leaves floating, 

rJ. alba, var. candidtsstma 

Fertile; petals spreading in all directions, 

AT. Gladstoniana 

Flower more cup-shaped N. alba 

Very double N. a., var. plenissima 

Very large N. a., var. maxima 

Sepals joining the receptacle by a sharp angle, 

N. Candida 



102 WATER-LILIES 

Flowers red or pink. 

Flowers small, pink, opening about ii a. m. 
Plant a single crown without offshoots, 

N. Laydekeriy var. rosea 
Plant with many side shoots, 

N. Laydekeri, var. rosea prolifera 
Flowers 3-7 inches across. 

Petals all alike in colour — pink. 

Leaves deep red beneath. N. odorata, var. rosea; 
N. exquisita; N. rosacea 
Leaves pink or green beneath. . . .N. Caroltniana; 
N. odorata^ var. Luciana; N. tuherosa^ 
var. rosea; N. t.^ var. superha 
Outer petals whitish, shading to pink or red at centre 
of flower. 
Plants very robust; fls. and Ivs. rising above water. 
Flowers soft flesh pink 

N. Marliacea, var. carnea; N. Wm. Doogue 
Flowers deep rose colour. 

N. Marliacea, var. rosea 
Less robust; fls. floating, deep red at centre. 
Leaves blotched with brown. 

Flowers rosy lilac. N. Laydekeri^ var. lilacea 
Flowers deep red. 

Sepals and petals in fives N. gloriosa 

Sepals and petals in fours 
Stamens deep orange. 

N. Marliacea, var. flammea 
Stamens cardinal 

N. Marliacea, var. ignea 



THE HARDY WATER-LILIES IO3 

Leaves dark green. 
Fertile. 

Inner petals bright red. N. alha, var. rubra 
Inner petals deep carmine. . . .N. Froebelii 
Sterile hybrids. 

Flowers opening in early morning. N. Wm. 

Falconer; N. James Gurney; N. 

James Brydon 

Flowers opening after 9 a. m. N. Elltsiana; 

N. sanguinea; N. Marltacea, var. rubra 

punctata; N. Laydekert, var. purpurea 

Outer petals yellowish, shading to red at centre of 

flower. 

Leaf with a notch on border of sinus. 

ISI. Robinsoni. 

Sinus entire. TV. Seignoreti; N. Aurora; N. fulva; 

N. Andreana; N. lucida; N. Laydekeri 

fulgens; N. chrysantha; N. Arethusa; N. 

Arc-en-ciel 



The Tender Day Blooming Water-lilies 



»s 



CHAPTER VIII 
The Tender Day Blooming Water-lilies 

There are two great groups of tender 
water-lilies. In one group the flowers ex- 
pand in the evening, remain open all night, 
and close during the following morning 
(these are discussed in the next chapter); 
in the other group the flowers open at various 
hours during the morning, and close, as 
variously, in the afternoon. 

These day bloomers have sweet-scented 
flowers, six to twelve inches across, carried on 
strong stalks several inches above the water. 
The leaves are often very large (up to two 
feet) and float upon the water like those of 
the hardy kinds. The leaf margins are often 
wavy, while the hardy kinds always have 
smooth-edged leaves. In this group we 
have — or soon shall have — flowers in all 
colours: red, blue, yellow, and white! Splendid 
107 



I08 WATER-LILIES 

creatures they are. It Is no wonder the 
Egyptians carved pictures of them on their 
temple walls, painted them on their coffins, 
covered the dead with wreaths of them, and 
bore them in their processions, as offerings 
to the gods. 

GLISTENING WITH BLUE AND GOLD 

The king of all the water-lily tribe is the 
Zanzibar water-lily {Nymphcea Zanziharien- 
sis). Its flowers are of the richest royal blue, 
often ten inches across, and borne eight or 
ten inches above the water on strong stalks 
thicker than one's thumb. The broad, blunt 
petals make a solid cup-shaped ring, sur- 
rounding a large number of stamens. These 
last are truly *' gleaming with purple and 
gold" — golden anthers, with carmine purple 
backs. In the centre of the flower, seen only 
on its first day of opening, is the cup-shaped 
golden yellow pistil, an inch in diameter. 
This lily opens on three, four, or rarely five 
successive days, from ii a. m. until 5 p. m. 



TENDER DAY BLOOMING WATER-LILIES ICQ 

A well-grown plant has dark-green leaves, 
mottled with brown, eighteen to twenty-four 
inches across, with deeply wavy margins, 
and the under side a dull purpKsh blue. 

It will accommodate itself to a great 
variety of circumstances. It will flower 
even in a 6-inch pot, sunk in a tub of water, 
but the blooms will be only three inches 
across, and the leaves small in proportion. 
The more room, the more and the larger 
the flowers and leaves will be. With a 
3-foot tub for the roots and ten feet square 
of water surface, you can get the maximum 
results. 

A new flower comes up every two or three 
days, so you always have one, often two or 
three blooms from a single root. It blossoms 
from the middle of July until kiUing frosts 
arrive. 

PALE BLUE AND RED ZANZIBARS 

There are two forms and several hybrids 
of the Zanzibar water-hly, all of which 



no WATER-LILIES 

deserve a close acquaintance: the azure 
Zanzibar (M. Zanzibariensis, var. azurea), 
with flowers of light blue, and leaves pale 
blue beneath; the pink Zanzibar (N. Zanzt- 
bariensis, var. rosea) which has flowers of 
bright rose pink, and leaves reddish beneath. 
There is a tinge of purple about the pink 
petals of the latter variety, which betrays its 
origin. 

Just how it sprang from its deep blue 
parent is not quite clear. It makes a mas- 
sive, beautiful flower. 

THE GORGEOUS HYBRIDS 

Next to the two just mentioned must be 
placed the hybrids of similar colour, N. Wil~ 
liam Stone ^ Mrs. C. W. Ward, and Stella 
Gurney. From a broad spreading circle 
of large green leaves the slender flower 
stalks rise, topped with graceful, starry 
blooms. 

William Stone is bright blue, Mrs. C. W. 
Ward is pink, with a tinge of purple, and 



TENDER DAY BLOOMING WATER-LILIES III 

Stella Gurney is a very bright pink. In 
all three, the inside of the sepals shares 
somewhat of the colour of the petals. 
They are from seed of the white-flowered 
N. flavo-vtrens (known in American gardens 
as N. gracilis but different from the plant 
of that name in Europe). The petals are 
narrow, and taper to an acute point. The 
flower is " star-shaped, '* the parts spread- 
ing out in all directions, like rays of a star. 
They are borne on tall stalks, a foot or 
more above the water. The effect is very 
striking. 

A RED DERIVED FROM A BLUE 

Deserving of special notice is Nymphcea 
flavo-virens, var. rubra (The "red gracilis" 
of our gardens). It is much hke Mrs. C. W. 
Ward, but the purple tone of the latter is 
ehminated, and we get a pure deep pink, 
approaching red. 

This is at once a pleasure to the cultivator 
and a notable triumph for the plant breeder. 



112 WATER-LILIES 

for it came from a blue parent, N. Zanzi- 
hariensis. 



A GOOD PINK FOR ANYBODY 

Another pink water-lily among the tender 
day bloomers is in this country, though not 
offered in catalogues. This is Nymphcea 
stellata, var. versicolor. The flower is from 
four to five inches in diameter, pure pink 
with few and rather narrow petals, rising 
but a few inches above the water. The 
leaves have wavy margins, are pink beneath, 
and about eight inches in diameter. While 
its size is not equal to that of many of 
its relatives, this variety is very pretty, 
and gives promise of value, as one easy to 
propagate. 

In the fall, the base of each leaf, where it 
separates from the short stem, develops a 
little, hard tuber. This tuber may be kept 
along with ordinary tender bulbs during 
the winter, and will produce one or more 
plants the following summer. The plant 




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o ^ 



1 i > 







TENDER DAY BLOOMING WATER-LILIES 1 13 

is native to India, Indo-China, and the 
Philippines. 

THE LONGEST ENDURING — GIGANTEA 

If for massive, dazzling splendour the Zan- 
zibar water-lily deserves kingly praise, cer- 
tainly the giant lily {Nymphcea gigantea) is 
the queen of water-lilies. Its flower is a 
huge, airy head of soft azure blue, with a 
centre of purest gold. The original speci- 
men in the Kew herbarium is twelve inches 
across. The blossoms are borne a foot and 
a half above the water, on slender green 
stalks, sHghtly bending with the weight they 
carry. It is open on five to seven successive 
days from 8 or 9 a. m. until twihght; it is 
therefore of much longer duration than any 
other species. The petals are twenty to 
fifty in number, broad and rounded, and of 
a shghtly crinkled texture, Hke crepe. The 
colour shades from a deep blue at the point of 
the petal to a very pale blue at the base. The 
tints are exquisitely chaste and pure; the 



114 WATER-LILIES 

flower is an embodiment of grace and dig- 
nity. The leaves are large, a little more 
oval than round, dark green above, but deep 
Tyrian purple beneath. The margins are 
very evenly scalloped, each wave ending in 
a sharp tooth. The plant is separated from 
all others of its kind, by several botanical 
differences, the most notable of which is 
that there are no gradations from petals to 
stamens. 

NymphcBa gigantea is the most difficult of 
the day bloomers to cultivate. It can hardly 
be grown at Philadelphia without artificial 
heat. If you wish to grow it, get a large 
plant, and have it shipped in the pot or 
basket in which it was grown. Set it out 
two weeks later than the other tender kinds, 
and hope for warm weather at the time of its 
arrival. Place it in the tank with the 
utmost care. 

Any check in its growth is likely to cause it 
to stop growing, and drop its leaves; and it 
can only be coaxed into growth in warm water 
after a rest, too late for the current season's 



TENDER DAY BLOOMING WATER-LILIES II 5 

use. The perfect plant is so stately, so 
noble, that it is worth much effort and risk. 



THE ONE POPULAR WHITE 

Of blues and whites we may have a con- 
siderable assortment, inside the present 
group. N. flavo-virens (commonly cata- 
logued in America as N. gracilis), already 
mentioned, is the only well-known white. Its 
flowers are borne on tall, slender stalks. The 
petals open quite widely, and are arranged 
in a graceful star form. The very sweet- 
scented flower opens on three successive days 
from early morning until 5 or 6 p. m. The 
petals are narrow and pointed, and of a dull 
rather than a snowy whiteness. The leaves 
reach a diameter of eighteen to twenty inches, 
and are bright green on both sides. While 
this is not a showy species, it is graceful and 
pleasing. 

It is very easily increased, either by seeds 
or tubers. In the fall the main stem, as big 
as one's fist, or bigger, hardens and ripens 



no WATER-LILIES 

into a rough tuber. It should be taken in- 
doors about the first of November, or earlier, 
if ripe, and kept in dry sand. Pringle says 
he has seen them lying on the ground in dried- 
up pools in Mexico, like old pine cones. In 
spring each tuber gives rise to several lusty 
plants for summer blooming. This hardy 
character is shared by its offspring, William 
Stone, Mrs. C. W. Ward and Stella Gurney, 
making these the best ones for most of us. 

THE BEST W^HITE NOT OFFERED 

A nearly allied species is Nymphcea ampla, 
from tropical America. While it resembles 
N. flavo-virens in colour, the flower is larger 
(four to seven inches across) and the petals 
broader, and rounder. The leaf is often 
very large, twenty to twenty-four inches 
across, and reddish purple beneath. The 
sepals are marked with numerous black 
specks and Hnes, whereas those of N. flavo- 
virens are pure green, or very rarely with 
black markings. Unfortunately, this fine 



TENDER DAY BLOOMING WATER-LILIES 1 1 7 

species has yet to be introduced to the Ameri- 
can trade; the plant commonly known in 
the American trade as N. ampla is N, Ama- 
zonurriy a night bloomer. 

A BLUE GEM FOR THREE DAYS 

We have a native blue water-lily which is 
the daintiest of all its group, Nymphcea ele- 
gans. The smooth-edged oval leaves lie 
separately on the water, without crowding 
one another. They are about eight inches 
long, by six inches wide, of very graceful out- 
line. The dark green upper surface is hand- 
somely blotched with brown, the under 
surface a rich red-purple, with blue-black 
specks. Each flower lasts three days, and is 
open from 8 a. m. until i p. m. Think of the 
most delicate shade of violet in the rainbow, 
and you have an idea of the colour that 
plays on the petals and shades in and out 
between the golden stamens and the pale 
sepals of this charming little water-Hly. It 
rarely exceeds six inches in diameter. Like 



II 



8 WATER-LILIES 



all the others, it needs no special care in 
summer, and it is as easy as any blue kind 
to flower under glass in winter. 

THE REAL EGYPTIAN LOTUS 

The true Egyptian lotus, or blue lotus 
(Nymphcea cceruled)^ is a water-lily of this 
class, and one of the easiest blues to raise. 
The flowers rise well above the water, and 
are open for three days, from 7:30 a. m. 
until noon. They never open very widely, 
but remain in a broad cup-shape, so that 
the four green sepals, with the characteristic 
copious black spots, are always evident. 
The petals are of a pale-blue colour, shading 
to dull white at base, not very numerous, and 
rather narrow. The flowers will measure six 
and a half inches across, with petals three and 
a half inches long. The leaves reach a 
diameter of twenty inches under very favour- 
able circumstances. They are entire, dark 
green above, copiously spotted with black 
beneath. 



TENDER DAY BLOOMING WATER-LILIES 1 19 

This species produces many seeds, which 
are easily grown. Its seeds have been known 
to He out in the mud of a pond near Phila- 
delphia over two winters, and to come up 
vigorously during the second summer. The 
same thing occurred once with the Zan- 
zibar lily, the seedlings actually coming into 
bloom in September. 



OPEN AS LATE AS FOUR o'cLOCK 



The last real species of blue water-lily is 
Nymphcea Capensis. It is a strong plant, 
with pale blue flowers like the azure Zanzi- 
bar. It differs from that chiefly in keeping 
its flowers open from 7 a. m. to 4 P. M., and 
in having the leaves pure green on both 
sides. The sepals and petals are narrower. 
The flowers are very large, and of perfect 
shape, making this a desirable kind. 

THE BEST BLUE STAR 

From the blue lotus (Nymphcea ccerulea) 
have sprung two hybrids of prominence. 



120 WATER-LILIES 

AT. pulcherrima and ISf . Pennsylvania. N. 
pulcherrima has long been known as the 
best ''stellate'' light blue. By stellate is 
meant that the petals are few and narrow 
enough to give the flower a star-like shape. 
It is a fairly free bloomer, and produces very 
large flowers and leaves. Its big, sharp, 
cone-shaped buds, heavily mottled with black 
dots, are very striking and characteristic. 
The leaves have wavy margins. 

A DANGEROUS RIVAL — PENNSYLVANIA 

It is said, however, that Nymphcea Penn- 
sylvania is to outshine ISf ymphcea pulcher- 
rima. Pennsylvania is a most prolific 
bloomer, always having two or three flowers 
up at once. They remain open from 8 a. m. 
until 5 P. M. Each one is a great, bright 
blue cup, with a golden centre. The buds 
are big, blunt, and egg-shaped. The four 
heavy sepals are thickly marked with black 
dots and lines. The original plant bore 
petals four and a half inches long. None 



TENDER DAY BLOOMING WATER-LILIES 121 

of its kin surpasses it in size and freedom 
of flowering. The leaves, too, are as large as 
those of any of its allies, spotted with brown 
above, and more or less bluish beneath. 

THE YELLOW GLORIES TO COME 

There are two treasures awaiting intro- 
duction, and which promise great things. 
Africa hides in its vast interior two yellow 
tender species, allied to the present blues and 
reds and whites. One has excellent double 
flowers six or seven inches across {Nym- 
phcea Stuhlmannii). The other {Nymphcea 
sulphur ea) is a pigmy, with flowers and 
leaves two to three inches in diameter. Aside 
from their individual attractions, think what 
a future they offer for hybridisation! It is 
earnestly hoped that they will not long be 
absent from our gardens. 

KEY TO THE TENDER DAY BLOOMING WATER-LILIES 

Colour of flowers white. 

Lvs. green beneath; petals acute N. flavo-virens 

Lvs. red-purple beneath; petals obtuse. . . .N. ampla 



T22 WATER-LILIES 

Colour of flowers pink or red. 

Lvs. with little wart-like pustules beneath, 

N. stellata, var. versicolor 
Lvs. not pustulate 

Petals broad and rounded, 

N. Zanzihariensisy var, rosea 
Petals narrow; flower stellate 

Flowers pinkish N. Mrs. C. W. Ward 

Flowers pink A/". Stella Gurney 

Flowers red N. flavo-virenSy var. rubra 

Colour of flowers blue. 

Sepals densely marked with black spots 

Fl. small; stamens 50 to 70; fertile N. ccerulea 

Fl. large; bud sharply conical; sterile, 

Isf. pulcherrtma 

Fl. large; bud rounded ovoid A^^. Pennsylvania 

Sepals pure green or with very few spots 

The stamens all round-stalked N. gigantea 

The outer stamens with broad flat stalks 
(filaments) 

Lvs. entire; petals delicate violet N. elegans 

Lvs. sinuate, large 

Fl. deep royal blue, cup-shaped, 

N. Zanzihariensis 
Fl. azure blue 

Shape stellate; flower stalk tall, 

N. Wm. Stone 
Shape cup-like; fl. stalk shorter 
Lvs. bluish beneath, 

N. Zanztbariensisy var. azurea 
Lvs. pure green beneath. . .N. Capensis 



The Night Blooming Water-HUes 



133 



CHAPTER IX 
The Night Blooming Water-lilies 

The night blooming water-lilies, which 
we may properly term the lotos group, open 
the flowers between 7 and 8 p. m., and 
they remain open until from nine to one 
o'clock of the following day. Each flower 
does this on three successive nights. These 
are therefore preem.inently the busy man's 
water-lihes; the proper kinds for the suburban 
dweller who is away from home and garden 
throughout the day. 

They are all tender. In habit they re- 
semble their day-flowering relatives. The 
leaves are numerous and mostly large — up 
to two feet across — and lie flat on the 
water. 

A single plant will cover a space ten or 
twelve feet square. Yet they get on well 
in smaller quarters. We know of a red one 
125 



126 WATER-LILIES 

that bloomed all one summer In a tank 
four feet square, where two hardy water- 
lilies and the water-poppy also shared the 
space. 

The margin of the leaf in all the species of 
the lotos group is scalloped, with sharply 
pointed teeth. The flowers, when well grown, 
are large and massive, and are borne on stout 
stalks six to twelve inches above the surface 
of the water. In colour we have all shades, 
from pure white through pink to magenta and 
deep red. 

A REALLY BEAUTIFUL MAGENTA 

The most splendid member of this splendid 
group is Nymphcea Omarana. Its noble 
flower reaches a diameter of ten or twelve 
inches. 

In colour, it is of a brilliant purple-red 
hue, close to "magenta'' of the colour charts. 
Each petal has a narrow, nearly white, 
stripe along the middle. It has, as Tricker 
says, "an indescribable glow" when seen 



THE NIGHT BLOOMING WATER-LILIES l^^ 

in the early morning sunshine. The petals 
are thin and soft in texture, and spread 
gracefully in all directions in the fully 
opened flower. The sepals and lowermost 
petals become reflexed. The many brownish- 
red stamens stand erect in a ring at the 
centre of the flower. 

As this kind is a very free bloomer, a 
single root will always have one or two 
mature flowers. It begins to bloom in July 
and continues until frost. The circle of 
large bronzy-red leaves alone is an ornament 
to the garden. 

Comparable with this is Nymphcsa Star- 
tevantii. Under favourable conditions these 
flowers, too, may reach a foot in diameter. 
But it never opens more than to a wide cup- 
shape. The bright pink petals are broad 
and concave, evenly coloured and very 
numerous. The incurved stamens are of a 
brownish orange colour. The bronzy leaves 
are often very large, and always much crum- 
pled at the margins. It requires plenty of 
room and a high temperature to give the best 



128 WATER-LILIES 

results. It is the most massive in flower and 
foliage of all the true water-lilies. 

THE BEST RED LILY 

Of a darker shade than either of the pre- 
ceding, though a parent of both, is Nymphcea 
Devoniensis. This again has flowers of the 
largest size, but of a pure red colour. The 
petals are ovate, four or five inches long by 
an inch and a half wide. The flower does 
not expand so widely as that of Omarana, 
although it is more open than that of 
Sturtevantii. Devoniensis is a mostly sterile 
hybrid, and is a very free bloomer. The 
plant gives rise during the summer to a num- 
ber of lateral crowns. When several of these 
get started, a single plant may cover two 
hundred square feet of pond, and may have 
as many as thirty-six flowers and buds visible 
at one time! Under these conditions the leaves 
are badly crowded, and the flowers are under 
size, but the eff^ect is superbly rich. When 
the leaves first come up they are dark red. 



THE NIGHT BLOOMING WATER-LILIES I29 

As they grow older, they become greener, 
finally reaching a bronzy-green. 

A GROUP OF VERY DARK REDS 

Among recent introductions are some reds 
much deeper in shade than Devoniensis. 
Probably N. Geo. Huster is the best of these. 
It is a strong grower and free bloomer. Its 
flowers are not so large as those of Omarana, 
being only eight to ten inches across at the 
best. Otherwise the two kinds are much alike. 

N. Frank Trelease is a variety with still 
deeper crimson flowers, of medium size. The 
colour is so dark as to give very deep shadows 
between the petals. Its leaves are dark 
bronzy-red, and about fifteen inches across. 

N . James Gurney, Junior (not in the trade) 
is very much like Frank Trelease, but darker, 
being dark magenta overlaid by bluish purple. 

N. Columbiana, an old variety, is not so 
deep in colour as the last two, and its flowers 
are only about six inches across. The leaves 
are bronzy-red. It is only a moderate grower. 



130 



WATER-LILIES 



Passing to the other extreme of colour — 
for colour is our chief means of classifying 
these kinds — we have several pure whites. 
The chief of these goes by the name of Nym- 
phcea dentata. The petals of dentata are 
about three and a half times as long as they 
are wide. In a fully open flower they stand 
out in a ring or disc exactly at right angles to 
the petiole. In the middle of the flower the 
light yellow stamens stand erect. The whole 
effect is rather curious and a little stiff". It 
might be likened to a short, stout candle 
standing in the middle of a white saucer. 
The leaves are bright green. 

As varieties of this there are three forms 
offered, undoubtedly improvements in size 
and profusion of flowers: Nymphcea dentata, 
var. grandiflora, described as having petals 
twice as wide as the old form. N. dentata, 
var. superha has more numerous petals than 
the originial, and JSf . dentata^ var. magnifica, 
a larger flower. The old dentata only reaches 
eight or ten inches across. 

Distinguished from dentata by the shape of 




Plate XX.— THE FLOWER-BUD OF A VICTORIA 



This one (F. Cruziana) differs from V.regia in being less spiny 
on the sepals. At the time of opening a delicious fragrance, 
like pineapples, pervades the air 



THE NIGHT BLOOMING WATER-LILIES I31 

its flower is the white night lotus {NymphcBa 
Lotus). Horticulturally its chief virtue is its 
great fecundity. Both lotus and dentata 
bear big balls of seed in great profusion. 
And their hybrids inherit this character in 
more or less completeness. The petal of 
lotus is broad and concave, the outside often 
tinted with pink. The flower opens only to 
a cup-shape. NymphcEa thermalis is identical 
with NymphcBa Lotus. 

From these we may pass to Jubilee, of a 
dehcate pinkish white colour, and on to 
Smith iana, with sHghtly more pink; delica- 
tissima, light pink; Deaniana, deep pink; 
Kewensis, a little paler than Sturtevantii. 

With the flower colour goes a bronzy tint 
of the leaves. The leaves of delicatissima 
show a distinct metallic tint, which in Kewen- 
sis reaches a definite bronze. In shape of 
flower, dehcatissima resembles dentata: it 
opens widely, and the petals are narrow. 
The other three have broad ovate petals, 
which only open to form a cup-shaped flower. 

The cup-shape is only desirable when the 



132 WATER-LILIES 

flowers are looked at from above. Ordi- 
narily the widely opening kinds are to be 
preferred, as water-lilies have generally to 
be viewed from some distance. And in 
this group there is no odour to invite a closer 
inspection. 

Only the white night blooming water-lilies 
can be relied upon to come true to seed. 
Our reds and pinks are all hybrids, and will 
produce a great variety of tints from seed. 
Of course there is a pure red species, ISfym- 
phcea rubra, from which the hybrids have 
derived their colour. Regarding this Dr. 
Conard writes, "in spite of the offerings in 
catalogues, I am convinced that the true N. 
rubra is not in America. Its home is in India. 
Will not some one import a pure strain } " 

For the curiosity seeker, we must mention 
here an odd species from South America, the 
Amazon water-Hly (Nymphcea Amazonum; 
known in the trade as N. ampla). It needs 
the same treatment as those just described, 
though requiring a little more heat. The 
leaves are bright green, smooth edged, and of 



THE NIGHT BLOOMING WATER-LILIES I33 

a graceful oval shape. The flower is yellow- 
ish white, and four or five inches across. It 
floats on the water like the hardy kinds. The 
bud rises just above the water surface to-day, 
let us suppose. Between 3 and 4 a. m. to-mor- 
row it opens to a narrow cup-shape, and closes 
again before six. The next day it begins to 
open about half-past six in the evening, and 
by eight it has four white petals spread out 
around a firm white bud. Thus it remains 
until half-past three in the morning, when the 
whole flower bursts into full bloom. It thus 
remains spread for about fifteen minutes; by 
six o'clock it is entirely closed, and is already 
retreating into the water. There are several 
other kinds in South America of unknown, 
but probably similar, habits. They are only 
likely to appeal to the night watchman. 

THE GIANT VICTORIAS 

The queen of all the water-lily tribe, if not 
of the whole vegetable world, is the wonderful 
night blooming Victoria. Everyone should 



134 WATER-LILIES 

know its gigantic saucer-shaped leaves. They 
are often six feet across, perfectly circular 
in outline, with the margin turned up, four 
to eight inches at right angles to the water 
surface. Each leaf is a veritable boat, with 
capacity to float the weight of a man. The 
under side of the leaf presents a marvellous 
network of girder-like veins for the support 
of the giant structure. A strong plant should 
have three or four such leaves in perfect con- 
dition at one time. 

The flower is no less remarkable. It 
floats on the water, and regularly reaches 
twelve to eighteen inches in diameter. 
In appearance it is a huge and very double 
water-lily. The numerous petals are delicate, 
almost like chiffon in appearance (although 
really having plenty of substance) and spread 
out widely in every direction. In spite of its 
size, there is nothing coarse about it. 

Let us watch one open. About four 
o'clock in the afternoon, the great brown 
prickly bud looks very forbidding. Soon 
a most delicious fragrance assails our nostrils; 



THE NIGHT BLOOMING WATER-LILIES I35 

it speaks of apples, peaches, pineapples — 
what might be called a "symphony'' of 
scents. We look and see that the pale petals 
are showing through four crevices in Victoria's 
bud. As evening advances the great creamy 
blossom opens fully, and the odour becomes 
almost oppressive. Next morning, about 
nine o'clock, the flower closes. The second 
evening it opens an hour or two earlier than 
before. It has lost all its scent, but has 
assumed a pink colour. On the second 
morning it looks half wilted, and during the 
day it descends slowly into the water. The 
Victoria blooms almost continuously after 
it once gets started. But it requires a long 
season and a good deal of heat. 

Nearly allied to Victoria is the Gorgon 
plant {Euryale ferox), of Indo-China. It 
has small flowers whose royal blue petals 
make a brilliant contrast with the red inner 
surface of the sepals. The flowers, however, 
are not often seen, and sometimes do not open 
at all. The leaves are circular, two or three 
feet across, without any upturned border. 



136 WATER-LILIES 

It is cultivated like Victoria Cruziana, but is 
more hardy. These two plants are dis- 
cussed in greater detail in another chapter. 

KEY TO THE TENDER NIGHT BLOOMING WATER-LILIES 

Leaves with upturned margins Victoria 

Sepals smooth above V. Cruziana 

Sepals prickly to the tip V. regia 

Leaf margins not turned up 

Leaf peltate, entire (not cleft) Euryale ferox 

Leaf cleft on one side Nymphaa 

Leaf margin smooth N. Amazonum 

Leaf margin sharply toothed Lotos group: — 

Flowers pure white 

Petals spreading flat N. dentata and varieties 
Cup-shaped N. Lotus 

Flowers pink 

Delicate pinkish white; cup-shaped Jubilee 
Blush pink; cup-shaped Smithiana 

Light pink; opening flat delicatisstma 

Pure pink; cup-shaped Deaniana 

Pink to red; cup-shaped Kewensis 

Pink; cup-shaped Sturtevantii 

Flowers red 

Magenta; 10-12 in. across Omarana 

Red; 6-10 in. across Devoniensis 

Red; 6 in. across Columbiana 

Deep red; 8-10 in. across Geo. Huster 

Crimson; 9-10 in. across F. T release 



THE NIGHT BLOOMING WATER-LILIES I37 

The differences between the water-hlies 
of the Lotos group are too sHght to express by 
an analytic key. We never could do better 
than to arrange them in a Hnear series accord- 
ing to the colour of the flower. Indeed, of 
the hybrid Kewensis it is positively stated 
that but one plant was raised originally, and 
it died without leaving any progeny. What 
we now know as Kewensis, therefore, bears 
the name only by courtesy. It is a new cross 
which came out so nearly like its predecessor 
as to be horticulturally the same. 



Growing the Giant Victorias 



139 



CHAPTER X 

Growing The Giant Victorias 

The Victorias or giant water-lilies are 
natives of the warmer portions of South 
America, where they thrive in lagoons and 
in the quieter portions of rivers. Their 
gigantic leaves, often measuring more than 
five feet across, as well as the immense flower, 
fully a foot across, naturally produced a 
profound impression upon the European 
botanist Haenke who, in 1801, first reported 
their discovery. Numerous early attempts 
to introduce the plant into cultivation in the 
Old World were unsuccessful; seeds (sent 
both dry, and packed in wet clay) failed to 
germinate, and young plants did not survive 
long enough to produce flowers. It was not 
until about fifty years after the Victoria 
became known that the first flowering plants 
were grown from seed in Europe. At the 
141 



142 WATER-LILIES 

Duke of Devonshire's estate at Chatsworth, 
England, on the eighth day of November, 
1849, the first flower opened. During the 
same year two other plants blossomed in 
England, the one at Chiswick, the other at 
the Royal Botanic Gardens, Regent's Park, 
London. The latter plant was under the 
care of Mr. James Gurney, the veteran 
water-lily grower subsequently of Shaw's 
Garden, at St. Louis, Mo., and now the super- 
intendent of Tower Grove Park in that city 
where the annual displays of water-lilies 
have become famous. For him it was a 
never-to-be-forgotten moment when Queen 
Victoria, accompanied by the French Pres- 
ident, later Napoleon IIL, came to view the 
first flowering of the plant that had been 
named in her honour. A few years later 
seed was sent to America and the late Thomas 
Meehan obtained a flowering plant in 1851, 
in the gardens of Caleb Cope at Springbrook, 
near Philadelphia, Pa. 

At the present time there are recognised 
two distinct species of these giant water-lilies. 




^ 



<u 



i^ 



*i o 

a. 



^ ^ 



(U o 



o . 



GROWING THE GIANT VICTORIAS I43 

One, Victoria regia, is a native of the more 
tropical portion of South America, being 
found principally in the Amazon region. 
The other, Victoria Cruziana, (the V. Trickeri 
of the trade) occurs in the Rio Parana and 
its tributaries. This latter situation being 
comparatively cool, V. Cruziana has shown 
itself far better adapted to outdoor culture 
than the V. regia. Besides this physiological 
difference there are a number of morpholog- 
ical distinctions. Older plants of the two 
species may be most readily distinguished 
by the sepals, which in the regia are spiny 
almost, or quite, to the tip, while the sepals 
of Cruziana are smooth, except at the base. 
Further differences are shown in the leaf 
colouring. 

In the earlier stages, the upper surface of 
the young leaves of the Cruziana appears 
bright green and seems to be divided by a 
network of depressed reddish-coloured veins 
into a more or less concentric arrangement of 
quadi angular elevations. This concentric 
arrangement becomes an apparent radial one 



144 WATER-LILIES 

in the young leaves of regia, and their upper 
surfaces possess a very characteristic reddish- 
purple colour, except for some thin lines 
of bright green tissue bordering chiefly 
the radial veins near the centre of the leaf. 
In the young leaves of Cruziana this tissue 
is of a dark red hue. 

There are also differences in the under- 
surfaces of the leaves: those of the young 
Cruziana being green vs^ith an occasional 
purple tinge, v^hile those of the young regia 
are a pronounced red-purple. During the 
later development the leaves of regia have 
a more robust appearance, though the for- 
mation of the upstanding margins begins 
earlier in the season with Cruziana. 

Even in our northern climate both species 
produce fruit, which, attaining half the size 
of a man's head, contains numerous seeds, 
each about the size of a large pea and brown- 
ish in colour. These ordinarily retail at 
twenty-five cents apiece and may be obtained 
from any reputable seed-house. They are 
sent out in small glass tubes filled with water. 



GROWING THE GIANT VICTORIAS I45 

Keeping the seed very moist, preferably in 
water of not less than 60° F., is essential to 
their vitality; and it is to the neglect or 
ignorance of this little detail that the failures 
incident to the first attempts to introduce the 
Victoria must be ascribed. The seed should 
be procured and sown four months before the 
time of planting out, that is to say, February 
first or even earlier. It can be sown at once, 
using for this purpose a pan or pot three- 
fourths full of heavy loam, depositing the 
seeds on top of the soil. The pot must now 
be placed in a tank in the greenhouse with 
about three inches of water over the top of the 
seed bed. Seed of regia requires a tem- 
perature of about 85-90° F., to obtain which 
a device similar to the one used for raising 
the temperature in the tank in which the seed 
of tropical nymphaeas is germinating, can 
be used. For the seed of Cruziana so high a 
temperature is injurious, 60° to 70° F. being 
sufficient. 

Germination may take place in a week or 
ten days, but the greater number of the seeds 



146 WATER-LILIES 

will take at least a month and many may not 
germinate at all. The first sign of germina- 
tion is the splitting of the brownish seed-coat 
from which, shortly, the young root is pro- 
truded. In a little while the first thread-Hke 
leaf makes its appearance to be followed by a 
similar one. The third leaf shows an indica- 
tion of a blade, but is arrow-shaped. 

At this stage transplant the seedlings to 
two-and-one-half to three inch pots, using a 
heavy loam free from the admixture of sand 
or leaf-mould, and keeping the plant under 
water all the time. Repot when the first 
floating leaf appears and keep on repotting 
with larger sized pots or pans just as in the 
case of the nymphaeas. Both species are 
treated in the same way except that through- 
out V. Cruziana requires a temperature 20° F. 
lower. 

Even when 15-inch pans have been used 
it will often happen that the roots become 
too numerous for their receptacles and pro- 
trude into the water. While this is no cause 
for worry, it is better in such cases to use 



GROWING THE GIANT VICTORIAS 1 47 

larger pans. Besides this repotting, as they 
grow, the young Victorias require but little 
care. It is advisable to keep them clean and 
free from insects and algal growth. Ordi- 
narily, flushing with a garden hose will meet all 
requirements, though in extreme cases the 
use of a bath sponge of fine quality — a so- 
called Turkish sponge — will have to be 
resorted to. Should the sun become too 
strong, which is Hable to happen especially 
during the last days which the plants spend 
in the greenhouse, shade must be provided, 
either by whitewashing the glass or by means 
of cloth or lath frames which can be used 
during the middle of the day. 

If one does not care to take the risks of 
growing Victorias from seed, young plants 
can be obtained from the larger horticultural 
establishments at from $^ to ^lo each. 
Shipped in their own pots and protected by a 
packing case, they arrive in very fair con- 
dition, provided the distance be not too great, 
a journey of more than three days being 
liable to produce unfavourable results. On 



148 WATER-LILIES 

arrival piace the plants in a shaded tank, 
the water in which has a temperature slightly 
higher than that prevailing in the interior of 
the packing case. During the next few days 
gradually raise the temperature to the normal 
and the plant will quickly respond. Under 
these conditions the plants remain till the 
time of planting. 

By the time the plants are about four 
months old, they will have passed through the 
stages of their career most fraught with those 
dangers which we can avert by constant care 
and watchfulness, and are old enough to 
shift for themselves. In a cUmate like that 
of New Orleans, La., planting out in the pond 
where they are to grow during the summer is 
all that is then necessary. In a more tem- 
perate region a few extra precautions are 
yet demanded for Victoria regia, for, though 
both species may be grown out of doors, only 
the V. Cruziana will do its best in a cool pond. 
At Philadelphia, for instance, plants of this 
species may be put outdoors in shallow sunny 
pools in June. V. Cruziana even perfects 



GROWING THE GIANT VICTORIAS I49 

seeds, and young plants have been grown 
from self-sown seeds at Riverton, N. J. 
They bloomed late in August and September 
but did not again ripen seed. 

For regia, a heated pond, though not 
absolutely essential, is a desideratum if large 
leaves and numerous flowers are expected. 
Seedlings of Cruziana may be planted out, 
in a cHmate like that of St. Louis, about May 
20th, provided the condition of the weather 
is favourable. In more northern regions 
planting out should be delayed for at least 
two weeks. Such plants should be in bloom 
by July. 

Before planting regia, the ponds prepared 
according to the directions given elsewhere 
must be cleaned and levelled. Unless a 
concrete pit has been provided, special 
provision must be made for each plant by 
digging a hole about four feet square and two 
feet deep and filling in with a mixture of three 
parts old sod-soil and one part thoroughly 
rotted cow manure. Four days before plant- 
ing about six inches of water is let into this 



150 WATER-LILIES 

inner pond and at once a beginning is made 
with heating it to the required temperature 
by means of the heating plant provided. The 
temperature should be 80° F. in the morning, 
while the sun, through the day, may raise it 
to 90° or even 100° F. 

Once this temperature has been acquired 
by the water and provided the weather is 
seasonable, a beginning can be made with 
planting. The greatest care must be exer- 
cised in removing the plants from the pots, 
since the roots must not be injured under any 
circumstances. If there be any difficulty 
at all about removing the plant, break the 
pot — it's a good deal cheaper than a plant. 
Having successfully removed the Victoria 
seedling, make a hole in the soil which has 
been heaped up above the pit and carefully 
plunge the plant up to the neck in the soil, 
afterward pressing the soil firmly on the roots. 
Then a little sand can be strewn over the 
surface of the compost. This is very helpful 
in keeping down any vegetable matter which 
might float and make the surface of the pond 



GROWING THE GIANT VICTORIAS I5I 

unsightly. If the proper precautions have 
been taken the plant will thrive. 

A little scum will rise to the surface in even 
the most carefully planted ponds. This 
must be flushed off. It may happen that two 
or three days after planting the entire plant 
and a goodly portion of the soil rises to the 
surface of the pond! This is invariably due 
to the fact that the manure used in the com- 
post was insufficiently rotted, and that under 
the influence of the increased temperature a 
large amount of gas was generated by the 
decomposing matter. The only safeguard is 
the use of the most thoroughly rotted cow 
manure. Should it occur, there is nothing to 
do but to repeat the entire operation of plant- 
ing, the young plant being temporarily re- 
turned to its old quarters, care being taken 
to disturb as Httle as possible any soil which 
may be clinging to the roots. 

Planting completed, nothing remains to be 
done other than keeping watch on the tem- 
perature and maintaining the water at its 
proper level. As the plant grows older the 



152 WATER-LILIES 

depth of water must be increased. Ordi- 
narily this amounts to about one inch every 
three or four days. Finally the water-level 
should be about eighteen inches above the 
crown of the plant. 

If there should be a decided fall in the 
temperature of the atmosphere during the 
first few days after planting special arrange- 
ments, such as screening, must be made to 
protect the young plants. 

By the end of July the plant will have 
grown to such an extent that it needs the 
freedom of the outer pond, as up to this time 
its growth is confined to the inner tank. The 
water-level must be raised to such an extent 
that the inner and outer basin become as one. 
The heating of the inner basin is continued 
as before. 

The raising of the water level must be as 
gradual as before. Having raised it first of all 
an inch above the rim of the inner basin, it is 
increased till the desired height of the water 
has been reached, that is to say, about twenty- 
four inches above the crown of the Victoria. 



GROWING THE GIANT VICTORIAS 1 53 

The seed of the Victoria takes much longer 
to ripen than does that of nymphaeas. For 
this reason the flower which is to produce it 
must be selected early in the season. Since 
those first to appear are not always well 
formed, it is best not to use them but to 
wait for, say the fourth flower. Always 
select a good-sized and perfectly developed 
blossom for this purpose. On the morning 
of the third day after opening, surround it 
with a muslin bag to prevent the possible loss 
of seed. After this, do not allow other seed 
pods to develop, for a time at least, cutting 
all blossoms after their beauty has faded. 
After about two weeks it will be safe to allow 
another blossom to perfect a seed pod. The 
seed will be ripe enough for gathering in ten, 
or better twelve weeks, after the flower has 
disappeared under the water and when the 
flower-stalk begins to decay. But no harm 
will be done by deferring the harvesting until 
fall, at the time of the removal of the entire 
plant for the winter clearance. 



Lotuses, Water Hyacinths and Other 
Choice Aquatics 



155 



CHAPTER XI 

Lotuses, Water Hyacinths and 
Other Choice Aquatics 

No MORE stately plants adorn our gardens 
than the lotuses. Their great, circular, pel- 
tate leaves stand three or four feet above the 
water on stiff, slender, stalks. The leaf is 
often a Httle funnel-shaped, so that it catches 
the rain in a silvery pool at the centre. The 
surface is never wetted. Then, as the leaves 
bow before a breath of wind, each empties 
its cup of water into the pond. The flowers 
stand as high as, or higher than, the leaves. 
They are eight to twelve inches across, with 
many broad petals which stand out in all 
directions. 

The American lotus {Nelumho lutea) is 
native from New Jersey to Ontario, Minne- 
sota, and Texas. Leaves bigger around than 
a wash tub and flowers fully ten inches in 
157 



158 WATER-LILIES 

diameter may be gathered. The flower is 
creamy white or of a very pale yellow. It is 
not a vigorous plant in cultivation, but will 
do nicely if kept free from competition. It 
is quickly crowded out by its cousin, the pink 
or Indian lotus (often and wrongly called 
Egyptian lotus), Nelumho nuctfera, known 
to dealers as Nelumbium speciosum. 

The last named species resembles the 
former in all respects, except colour of flower 
and vigour of growth. The flowers of the 
latter are larger than those of the former, 
and each petal is tipped with rosy pink. At 
the centre of the flower is a big yellow recep- 
tacle like an inverted cone, surrounded by 
innumerable yellow stamens. These great 
blossoms are among the noblest products of 
the vegetable world. They fairly glow in 
the morning sunshine. In grace, dignity, 
and repose they are not equalled. No 
wonder is it that they figure symbolically in 
the ever-repeated Buddhist prayer, *' Om ! 
mani padme hum!'' — (**0! the jewel in the 
lotus-flower! ") 



LOTUSES, WATER HYACINTHS 1 59 

The pink lotus is perfectly hardy at New 
York. It once grew in great profusion in 
a mill dam at Bordentown, N. J., where it 
was introduced by E. D. Sturtevant. The 
roots must be protected from freezing by 
means of litter or a sufficient depth of water. 

Several varieties of the pink lotus have 
been produced in Japan, and are also avail- 
able here. Rosea has deep rose-coloured 
petals; there is also a double form of this. 
Shiroman is a nearly white, very double form. 
Kinshiren is also very double, and is of 
medium stature and free flowering. This last 
kind has been grown successfully in a half 
barrel. It produced three flowers the first 
year, but failed to get through the winter ahve. 

Lotuses grow by long rootstocks, which 
may run as much as forty feet in a season! 
They should be planted in very rich earth, 
under four to twelve inches of water. The 
bed should be well closed in by boards or a 
wall. Each year give the bed a good top- 
dressing of rotted manure. At intervals of 
three to five years the bed should be dug over 



l60 WATER-LILIES 

and the plants reset. In autumn each rhi- 
zome produces one or more long tubers, much 
the shape and size of a banana. These are 
the parts to transplant. They are moved in 
the spring when they are starting to grow, say 
about the first of May. Some of the Japanese 
lotuses are less hardy than others, but none 
stand the winters as well as the pure species 
N. lutea and N. nuctfera. 

THE STATELIEST AQUATIC " GRASS " 

It is no wonder that the plant from which 
the ancients made their papyrus figured so 
prominently in Egyptian art, for it is probably 
the stateHest "grass'* in the world. (It is 
really a sedge.) This Egyptian paper plant 
(Cyperus Papyrus) is known to dealers in 
greenhouse plants as Papyrus antiquorum. 

It grows with its roots just submerged, 
and sends up stalks four to six feet high, 
with a tuft of fine grass-like leaves a foot 
long at the top of each stalk. It is like a 
huge umbrella-plant with extremely fine 




Eh S 






^H 



h E 




Pl-vte XXV.- 



-THE BEAUTIFUL, BUT OVERWHELMING WATER 
HYACINTHS 



Beginning with a few plants, Eichhornia azurea multiplies so rapidly 
that the whole oond is soon covered. But in the fall they all die 



LOTUSES, WATER HYACINTHS l6l 

leaves. From long association it seems to 
belong beside the pink lotus. Being tender, 
it is grown in tubs. In autumn these are 
taken up after the first frost. The plants 
may be kept growing in a warm, well-lighted 
tank, or they may be stored in a cool place, 
provided they are kept wet. The papyrus 
needs no season of rest, and produces incon- 
spicuous flowers. 

There is a large kind of umbrella-plant 
(Cyperus alternifolius) which grows like the 
Papyrus and receives the same treatment. 
It is wholly a foliage plant. The common 
little umbrella-plant of our houses (Cyperus 
alternifolius, var. gracilis^ will also do equally 
well in the water garden. It is very easily 
propagated by division of the roots, or by 
planting the "umbrella" part of a leaf, with 
the stem cut off, in wet earth or in water. 
There are several varieties of this, differing in 
stature and in fineness of leaf. 

From Florida comes another tall plant, 
Thalia divaricata, which deserves notice. 
It has broad, oval leaves a foot long. In 



1 62 WATER-LILIES 

character they resemble canna leaves, but 
they are borne on long stalks two feet above 
the water. The insignificant flowers come 
in open panicles on tall wand-like stems. 
The plant has a loose, easy, picturesque 
appearance. It grows about six feet tall, 
and will flourish well in a tub the size of a 
half barrel. It is wintered in a warm tank, 
or, half dry, in a cool house. 

THE WATER HYACINTHS 

Of the plants necessary for the water 
garden, I should place next to the lotus the 
water hyacinth {Eichhornia speciosa). It 
makes dense beds of dark green foHage from 
which project large spikes of rich violet 
flowers. The plant floats freely on the 
surface of the water, or the roots will gladly 
catch in the mud. It will sometimes do 
equally well in one inch or in two feet of water. 
The leaves are from three to five inches in 
diameter, on stalks two to eight inches tall. 
The floating plants keep themselves up by 



LOTUSES, WATER HYACINTHS 163 

making a big swollen air-tissue at the base 
of each leaf-stalk, while rooted plants have 
taller and more slender stalks. The spikes 
are four to eight inches long, with closely 
set flowers, each two inches or more in 
diameter. The upper petal is larger than the 
others and has a bright yellow eye or spot. 

The water hyacinth spreads very rapidly, 
but may be easily kept in place by a floating 
wooden pen. Nail together some sticks or 
barrel hoops in the desired size and shape. 
They will float naturally, but should be 
fastened to stone anchors or to stakes driven 
into the bottom of the pond. The plant is 
tender and must be wintered in a warm 
tank. 

THE BRILLIANT YELLOW WATER POPPY 

The next plant which every one should 
have in his water garden is the water poppy 
{Limnocharis Humboldtii). Plant it in the 
earth at the edge of the pond, or in a tub 
supported on stones in the deeper water, so 



164 WATER-LILIES 

as to bring the roots near the surface. It 
sends out copious runners, two or three feet 
long, on which are many round, dark green 
leaves, about twice as big as a dollar. Over 
and among the shiny foKage rise innumerable 
brilliant yellow flowers as big as the leaves. 
They look a good deal like California poppies 
(Eschscholtzia). Each flower lasts only one 
day, but the succession is never failing. A 
dozen will often be seen at a time in one 
corner of a 4-foot tank. The water poppy is 
tender and must be kept growing throughout 
the winter in a warm tank. 

SOME FASCINATING SUBMERGED PLANTS 

Not a little beauty is added to the water 
garden by wholly, or almost wholly, sub- 
merged plants. What is more fascinating 
than to look down through crystal waters 
into waving tufts of green and purple foliage 
fanned by the lithe movements of orna- 
mental fishes .? Nearly all submerged leaves 
are divided into thread-like lobes. So it 



LOTUSES, WATER HYACINTHS 165 

is with the cabomba (C. Caroliniana). This 
makes luxuriant green plumes, growing in 
great bunches one to two feet long. It is 
hardy in two feet of water at Philadelphia, 
and grows wild near Washington, D. C. 
It is the commonest plant sold for aquaria. 

The bladderworts are also beautiful for 
under-water effects, especially the purple 
one (Utrtcularia purpurea). It grows in big 
loose tufts, extremely soft and fine. Each 
leaf bears a number of tiny bladders which 
catch small insects for the nourishment of 
the plant. The common bladderwort {U, 
vulgaris) and the inflated bladderwort 
(U. inflata) float freely in the water, usually 
near or at the surface. They have yellow 
flowers. All the aquatic bladderworts re- 
quire very still water, in both summer or 
winter. 

FOR BORDERING PONDS 

A good foliage plant for the border and 
for the decoration of vases and aquaria is 



1 66 WATER-LILIES 

the parrot's feather {Myriophyllum proser- 
pinacoides). It grows in slender feathery 
plumes. The leaves are very many, finely 
divided, and arranged on all sides of the 
stem. It grows rooted in earth at the edge 
of the pond, and spreads out in a broad 
feathery cushion of bright green. In autumn 
take in a few sprigs and put the ends in a 
bottle of water. It will grow all winter like 
an "air-plant'* without earth, but will do 
better with some soil in the bottle. I know 
a shallow, sheltered pond of spring water 
near Philadelphia where it lives out of doors 
from year to year. 

We may also have along the margin of 
the pond species of Marsilia. It is a water- 
fern, but does not resemble any other fern. 
The leaves float or stand erect and look like 
four-leaved clovers. It is a nice harmless 
little thing. The European Marsiha (M. 
quadrijolid) is quite hardy in New England. 

A really fern-like water-fern is the horn fern 
(Ceratopteris thalictrotdes). It is well known 
in European botanical gardens, but is rarely 



LOTUSES, WATER HYACINTHS 1 67 

seen in America. The sterile leaves are 
divided into many small oval segments, 
making a feathery light green frond ten or 
fifteen inches high. When one of these leaves 
falls over into the water, a young plant springs 
from every axil and cleft. The fruiting fronds 
have filiform segments, with revolute margins. 
The innumerable spores germinate freely in 
water or on wet earth. It is in this way that 
new plants are best secured. The plant is 
naturally an annual, but it may be wintered 
in a warm tank. Set it out in shallow water 
(one to four inches deep) after warm weather 
is estabhshed. 

Many curiosities may be added to the 
water garden, some of which also have a 
real place in the general effect of the garden. 
The golden club (Orontium aquaticum) is 
interesting for its yellow finger-like blooms, 
which come out soon after the ice melts. 
The spotted callas {Richardia alho-maculata) 
may adorn the margin here and there. The 
native pickerel-weed {Pontederia cordata) and 
the lizard's tail {Saururus cernuus), with 



1 68 WATER-LILIES 

flower spikes of blue and white respectively, 
are useful in some places. On the water's 
surface the floating moss {Azolla Caroltniana), 
the duckweeds (Lemna), and the salvinia 
(S. natans) are interesting. 

Where the lawn dips to the water's edge 
a clump of swamp rose mallows {Hibiscus 
Moscheutos) will bloom. This is well known 
as an ordinary garden plant. The great 
open flowers, white with red centre, or pink, 
are often five inches across. They bloom 
very freely through the middle and late sum- 
mer. Japanese iris, too, in all their multi- 
plicity of splendour, flourish near the margin 
of the pond. 

It would lead us too far to speak of the 
riches that the borders of the pond will har- 
bour. Only in passing can we glance at two 
or three nooks beside our way. Here in a 
little bay a stately group of cat-tails (Typha), 
narrow-leaved and broad, is waving. Be- 
hind them a bushy brake of ferns (Pteris and 
Woodwardia), willows and the swamp magno- 
lia (M. glauca) leads on into the woodland. 



LOTUSES, WATER HYACINTHS 1 69 

This boggy place begins with the common 
arrow-leaf {Sagittaria lati folia). As it wades 
out into deeper water its leaves are as thin as 
grass, but they get broad and oval where their 
stalks are not at all submerged. Among the 
grasses, and the curious horsetails, rise the 
stalks of great lobelia (L. syphilitica), the 
cardinal flower {Lobelia cardinalis), and 
their hybrids. What is more briUiant than 
the spike of the cardinal flower .? And beside 
them stand the aristocratic family of the 
flowering ferns (Osmunda) — noble ferns of 
great size and hardiness. Or perhaps in 
tropical luxuriance beside our NymphcBa 
gigantea, the bog is decorated with banana 
{Musa ensete), the giant rhubarb-like leaves of 
the Gunnera (G. manicata and G. Chilensis), 
shoots of Paulownia (P. imperialis), cannas 
and the like. On yonder rocky promontory 
a ruddy Japanese maple {Acer palmatuniy 
var. atropurpureum) hangs over the water, 
while in crevices of the rock the dainty 
maidenhair fern {Adiantum pedatum) is 
growing. 



Water Gardens Under Glass 



CHAPTER XII 

Water Gardens Under Glass 

There is no practical difference between 
growing water-lilies under glass and in the 
open. Under glass you can begin a little 
earlier — that is all. Fortunately, in nearly 
all sections of the country, there is a suffi- 
ciently long period of warm summer weather 
to enable us to grow all the nymphaeas, and 
at least the hardier of the two Victorias, in the 
open air. In the colder sections, however, 
it becomes necessary to provide greenhouse 
protection for the tender species of the 
former, and perhaps for both the Victorias. 
Naturally, such houses have to be built with 
special reference to the purpose, and they 
are obviously expensive, running into several 
thousand dollars. 

Formerly the circular or octagon shape 
was looked upon with most favour for the 
173 



174 WATER-LILIES 

aquatic house; but lately we have broken 
away from this tradition. A quadrangular 
greenhouse is more economical in construction 
and is really more convenient, as besides the 
central main pond or tank its form allows 
for the addition of numerous smaller tanks 
which can be utilised for the growing of bog- 
plants, floating aquatics, etc. 

The size of the largest houses which exist 
at the present time is such as to give a floor 
space of about 4,000 square feet. This is a 
good size. Water plants never appear to 
advantage when crowded together in a small 
space, and moreover they require ample 
room for their development. They are more 
sensitive in this regard than terrestrial plants. 
The Amazon water-lily {Victoria regia) is the 
one species that may call for the special 
house, and a building in which the width is 
to the length as 8:13 will be of proper relation, 
and the smallest tank that should be made for 
one plant is 20 x 20 feet. The arrangement 
of the interior requires considerable foresight. 
Convention places the large Victoria basin in 



WATER GARDENS UNDER GLASS I75 

the centre and smaller basins around the sides. 
The latter, since they are to accommodate 
plants of small stature, need be but fifteen 
inches deep, though it is well to have some 
thirty inches deep to accommodate Nelumbi- 
ums, etc. The central basin has at the sides 
a depth of thirty inches, and slopes toward 
the centre, where there is a pit to accommo- 
date the roots of the Victoria. Give this pit a 
capacity of about two hundred cubic feet. 

For heating purposes either steam or hot 
water can be used, the pipes being made 
to pass along the edges of both the larger and 
the smaller basins. The Victoria pit has a 
special coil, to provide extra heat for the roots 
and to permit the heating of the small amount 
of water which must surround the Victoria 
for the first few days after planting. At 
first the water temperature must be 90°F. 
but later, when the plant is well developed, 
and the tank filled with water, a temperature 
of 8o°F. will suffice. The air, which must be 
kept at 70°F., should be heated by a pipe 
passing under the ridge of the roof. Such an 



176 WATER-LILIES 

arrangement also greatly facilitates rapid 
ventilation. 

For the water supply there should be at 
least two taps in the main basin both fitted 
with a screw attachment for hose connection. 
Fountains are not to be advocated. They take 
too much space and the water drops are likely 
to cause spotting in the Nymphaea blossoms. 

For drainage an automatic cone-lid pipe 
is of greatest advantage. At least two lower 
holes must be provided so that in the early 
stages the water level can be kept low, and 
yet the pond can be flushed. A large drain, 
to be closed during the summer, is placed at 
the bottom of the Victoria pond. This 
enables one to clean the pond thoroughly 
after the removal of the water plants. In- 
stead of simply running oflF the water from 
the tanks into drains it will be found advan- 
tageous to allow it to supplement the water 
in an out-of-door pond or an artificial bog, 
both intended to accommodate hardier plants 
and which can be located in the immediate 
vicinity of the greenhouse. Even the hardier 




2i -t: 
(« c 

oj o 



^ o 






WATER GARDENS UNDER GLASS 1 77 

water plants are very grateful for a little 
extra heat about the roots. 



AN EARLY BEGINNING 

Planting under glass can be done far earlier 
than in the open. Even in Apn a beginning 
can be made, though only with the nymphaeas. 
Since, however, the Victoria is but seldom 
ready for planting out earher than the first 
of May, it is well to wait until then. First 
plant the Victoria, and when you are 
sure it has a good start, put in the rest of the 
water-HHes. SeedHngs and also plants raised 
from tubers and root-stocks that have been 
wintered, can be started into growth in the 
side tanks in the growing house. 

Concrete walks are better than gravel 
walks though the latter may present a better 
appearance. But it is a good deal easier 
to keep the former clean and dry. Never 
make the walks too narrow; three feet is a 
minimum, and in larger houses they can well 
be double that width. It is very necessary 



178 WATER-LILIES 

to arrange for drainage of the walks, espe- 
cially if of concrete. 

For the best type of aquatic house two 
doors, one at each end, are desirable. One 
only need be used while the plants are in 
flower, and should be provided with a vesti- 
bule, not only for the protection of visitors 
from sudden changes of temperature, but 
also for the protection of the plants themselves 
from sudden gusts of cold wind. The other 
door, because it is to be used in the spring for 
the bringing in of the soil and in the fall for the 
removal of the old plants, etc., must be at least 
six feet wide. Though perennial in its native 
haunts, the Victoria must be treated as an 
annual when grown in our climate. At- 
tempts to keep the plant a second year have 
thus far been most unsatisfactory. 

During the fall and winter the Victoria 
house offers an excellent opportunity for the 
storing of perennials and woody plants, such 
as crotons, standard fuchsias, lantanas, bay 
trees, etc., which during the summer have 
graced the garden. 



Enemies and Friends 



179 



CHAPTER XIII 

Enemies and Friends 

Water-lilies growing in natural ponds 
are greatly subject to the attacks of various 
enemies, especially of those belonging to the 
animal kingdom. The one most to be 
dreaded is the muskrat, who, if unrestrained, 
will feed on the rhizomes during the winter. 
He has a preference for those species with 
the least fibrous roots, such as the odorata 
group. The nelumbiums also fall a prey 
to his voracity. And what they use for food 
is but a small part of what they destroy, for 
a muskrat, after gnawing off a large piece 
of the rhizome, will drag it to the bank, there 
to eat it at his leisure, and leaving it thus 
exposed it is surely killed. 

So great a plague is the muskrat that one 
has to choose between harbouring this 
criminal or growing nymphaeas. The best 

i8i 



1 82 WATER-LILIES 

way to get rid of him is by means of traps, 
though it will pay anyone with many water- 
lilies to employ the services of a professional 
trapper. Yet even then a few muskrats 
may be left or come in from the outside, just 
when one is reasonably satisfied that the pest 
has been eliminated. This is especially 
liable to be the case where the ponds are in 
the neighbourhood of other natural ponds or 
of a river. An absolutely safe means of pro- 
tection against these marauders is to place 
the roots in large shallow boxes, say three by 
four feet wide and two feet deep, which are 
sunk in the proper places. Having filled 
the boxes with soil the plants are placed in 
their proper position and wide slats are 
nailed over the top, at a distance of about 
two inches from each other. This allows the 
leaf and flower buds plenty of room to pass 
through, while it prevents Mr. Muskrat from 
getting in. 

Another enemy to be guarded against, 
though at a different time of the year, is the 
snapping turtle, who, delighting in the 



ENEMIES AND FRIENDS 183 

young leaves and flower-buds, eats them off 
nightly. The small mud-turtles, if not numer- 
ous, are harmless, though it is well not to let 
their number increase too greatly. The best 
method of guarding against them is seining, 
though a bounty offered to the small boys in 
the neighbourhood will prove very efficacious. 

Sunfish in too great numbers are harmful 
because they eat the snails which do not 
harm the older plants and are also beneficial 
in keeping down the growth of algae. The 
latter may become obnoxious in the summer. 
The best way to get rid of them is by tying a 
bag of copper sulphate to the end of a boat 
and rowing up and down the pond, trailing 
the bag till the salt is entirely dissolved. For 
this purpose one should use one pound of 
copper sulphate for every million gallons 
of water. Where the pond is too small 
to allow the use of a boat, the salt can be tied 
in a bag at the end of a stick, which is worked 
about in the water until the contents are 
dissolved. 

Since the amount of copper sulphate (blue 



184 WATER-LILIES 

vitriol) to be used depends upon a number 
of factors, such as the particular kind of or- 
ganism to be destroyed, temperature, tempo- 
rary hardness of the water, etc., the reader 
had best consult Bulletin No. 76, Bureau of 
Plant Industry, U. S. Department of Agricul- 
ture, in which the method is treated in detail. 
In puddled ponds the crawfish may be a 
source of great annoyance, not only because 
they cut off the young leaves and even the 
buds, but also because they bore deep holes 
through the bottom of the pond, practically 
turning it into a sieve. Here an ounce of 
prevention is worth a pound of cure. At the 
last minute, that is to say, six or seven days 
before planting, nearly empty the pond. 
Thousands of crawfish, both young and old 
will be seen. It is sufficient to sprinkle 
tobacco dust plentifully. This is effectual in 
killing all crawfish, and all other animal life, 
which later may advantageously be replaced 
by a generous supply of goldfish. In a couple 
of days flush the pond and empty it once more 
to clean it out and to repuddle where neces- 



ENEMIES AND FRIENDS 185 

sary. If this operation is repeated each year, 
the crawfish never become a source of serious 
danger to the well-being of the water garden. 

In other artificial ponds none of the above 
mentioned enemies, algae perhaps excepted, 
are liable to become serious. But there are 
others, particularly those belonging to the 
insect world, which may cause trouble in any 
kind of pond. One of these is the leaf-miner, 
the larva of which channels through the 
leaf between the upper and lower skins. It 
may be destroyed by spraying with kerosene 
emulsion made according to the standard 
formula. This is best done in the evening 
after the flowers are closed. Unhappily, the 
same method cannot be used to combat the 
leaf-cutter who cuts off portions of the leaves 
and makes a sort of tent of them, inside of 
which it moves about. Later in the season, 
especially, this larva can do much damage. 
The remedies suggested are lamp-traps and 
picking ofi^ by hand . Dragonflies and frogs are 
their natural enemies. The latter should 
be encouraged by every means. 



1 86 WATER-LILIES 

Frequently a fungus attacks the leaves of 
water-lilies, causing the leaf to become 
spotted after which it finally decays. A fun- 
gicide, such as a very weak Bordeaux mix- 
ture, has been recommended to overcome this. 

There is quite another fungus that attacks 
the young seedlings just after they have been 
transplanted. Here again prevention is better 
than cure. Strong and healthy seedlings 
appear to withstand the fungus which seems 
to be especially prevalent where manure has 
been mixed with the soil. 

The snails which seem so greatly to enjoy 
their existence in the greenhouse tanks set 
aside for water-lilies are among the worst 
pests during the earlier stages of growth. 
Picking off by hand is perhaps the best remedy 
though it will be found beneficial to keep a 
few fish in the tanks. Not only do the fish 
make war on the snails but they also destroy 
a large number of the aphides which are 
found in large numbers on the young plants. 
Syringing the plants is probably the best 
remedy. 



ENEMIES AND FRIENDS 187 

There are certain water plants which 
have a tendency to take possession of an entire 
pond and need keeping within bounds. 
Such a plant is the water chestnut (Trapa 
natans). Its fruits, provided with strong 
prongs, lodge in the debris at the bottom of 
the ponds. Often, in the spring, the entire 
surface of a large pond will be covered with 
young plants. Even their removal in boat- 
loads will not suffice to get rid of the plant 
which, of comparatively recent introduction, 
has now become a pest in some localities. 
Removal does no good as there are always 
more seeds on the bottom of the pond. 

It is inadvisable to use this particular plant, 
as a cultivated one, in any but concrete ponds, 
which, at least, can be thoroughly cleaned 
when the need arises. 

During the winter the tubers of the various 
water-lilies that are stored in the greenhouse, 
must be carefully protected from the depre- 
dations of rats and mice that find them most 
delectable morsels. 



Pond Surroundings, Windbreaks and 
Accessory Plants 



Z89 



CHAPTER XIV 

Pond Surroundings, Windbreaks and 
Accessory Plants 

The aquatic garden must be protected 
from the wind and, unless some form of wind- 
break is already in existence, one must be made, 
especially if the site is near the sea or a lake, or 
on an open plain. The windbreak also pre- 
vents the too rapid evaporation of the water 
which is likely to be very injurious to plants 
near the margin. 

HEDGES for SMALL PONDS 

For smaller ponds a low hedge of privet will 
answer all requirements, but for a large pond, 
or where there is a series of successive ponds, 
the windbreaks must be composed of trees, 
supplemented by groups of shrubbery. In 
any case the hedge must be placed so that the 
191 



192 WATER-LILIES 

ponds are in no way shaded. A distance of 
at least five hundred yards from the pond is 
necessary for the windbreaks. 

CONIFERS FOR WINDBREAKS 

Evergreens form the most important class 
of windbreaks. Among them, the Norway 
spruce (Picea excelsa) is universally recog- 
nised as the best for this purpose. Not only 
is it perfectly hardy in the northern United 
States and adapted to almost any soil, but 
its symmetrical proportions and rapid growth 
recommend it especially. Provided the trees 
are trimmed yearly, this spruce can be used 
equally well as a hedge. 

Left to itself, the Norway spruce may attain 
a height of 150 feet, but long before this, at the 
age of about thirty years, it will be advisable 
to replace the trees since they become open at 
the bottom. There are dwarf varieties to be 
had. 

P. polita, on account of its slow growth, is 
well adapted to use in small gardens. 



POND SURROUNDINGS I93 

Other hardy spruces which make a pleas- 
ing appearance, are P. pungens and P. alba. 
The latter endures heat and drought very well, 
differing in this respect from the Sitka spruce 
{P. Sttchensis), and which, though very orna- 
mental, cannot be recommended on this 
account. 

Another evergreen, well adapted for a wind- 
break, because of its density and symmetry, 
is the arborvitae (Thuya occidentalts), though 
in beauty and rapidity of growth it is surpassed 
by the Thuya gigantea. This is not quite 
hardy in the East, though able to stand the 
winter on the Atlantic Coast as far north as 
43° lat., in which it agrees with the Siberian 
arborvitae {Thuya orientalis). T. orientalis 
and T. occidentalis are readily distinguished 
by the position of the branchlets; in the 
former they are arranged perpendicularly, but 
less so in T. occidentalis. The latter tree 
may become sixty feet high; the former never 
attains a height of more than twenty-five 
feet. 

Though well adapted for planting singly in 



194 WATER-LILIES 

formal gardens, the thuyas give more satis- 
factory results in hedges or groups. 

For light, sandy and well-drained soil, pines 
form the best windbreaks. Among them the 
Austrian pine {Pinus Laricio, var. Austriaca) 
is especially recommended as it will flourish 
under the most adverse circumstances and 
survives in cities where others die from the 
influence of smoke. It becomes a tree lOO 
feet high. The Swiss stone pine {Pinus 
Cembra), with a very dense growth and ordi- 
narily attaining a height of seventy feet is 
quite hardy and very handsome. 

The Bhotan pine (P. excelsd) is, in a shelt- 
ered position, hardy as far north as Massa- 
chusetts and may attain a height of 150 feet. 
It is of special value as a windbreak because it 
retains its lower branches. The drooping 
leaves, six to eight inches long, with their 
blue-grey sheen, make the trees particularly 
attractive, not only when planted singly but 
also when grouped. 

The Korean pine {Pinus Koraiensis), be- 
cause of its slow growth, is recommended as 



POND SURROUNDINGS I95 

a hardy pine for smaller gardens. It may 
reach a height of 100 feet uhimately. 

The mountain white pine (P. monticola) is 
hardy as far north as Massachusetts and may 
become 100 to 150 feet tall. It resembles the 
common white pine. The Mountain pine 
{P. montana) with the varieties pumilio and 
Mughus, is a hardy, low shrub, suited for 
planting in clumps or singly. Pinus parviflora 
is not only a very handsome tree, but because 
of its dense growth it is also very successful as 
a windbreak. It is quite hardy and reaches 
a height of about eighty feet. Pinus Pence is 
hardy and recommends itself by its regular 
and dense habit; it is, however, of slow 
growth. The white pine {Pinus Strohus) 
is hardy far north and a rapid grower, reach- 
ing a height of from 100 to 150 feet. It is a 
great favourite because it possesses a very 
regular habit when young. There are a 
number of dwarf forms. 

The hemlocks constitute quite another class. 
They are exceedingly graceful trees, not stiff, 
yet imposing, retaining their lower branches. 



196 WATER-LILIES 

They do well almost anywhere provided the 
soil is not too dry. Ordinarily the native 
common hemlock (Tsuga Canadensis) is 
used, singly or in groups. It is also well 
adapted to hedge purposes, but reaches a 
height of about eighty feet if left alone. Taller 
and more beautiful, but less hardy, is Tsuga 
Mertensiana, a species of Western North 
America. 

On a moist, well-drained soil, plant the firs. 
Foremost among them is Nordmann's {Abies 
N ordmanniana), a. tree reaching a height of 
150 feet and which is much in demand on 
account of its hardiness and beautiful foliage, 
dark green and shining above, silvery white 
on the lower surface. Abies concolor takes 
equal rank with this tree. It is recommended 
especially for the Eastern States, not only be- 
cause of its rapid growth and great hardiness 
but also because it suffers less from heat and 
drought than do the other firs. 

Other desirable firs are A. Cilicica and A. 
Cephalonica (of which the variety ApoUinis 
is more hardy in the North), A. homolepis 




Pickerel weed {Pontederia cordata) at its best, showing how well this common 
native looks in cultivation. Flowers pale blue. Needs checking occasionally 




Hardy ferns as a border for a shady pond. How much better than the hard, straight 
shore line that is commonly allowed to show! 

Plate XXVIII.— THE EASIEST MARGIN PLANTINGS 



POND SURROUNDINGS I97 

and A. Feitchii, the latter two especially when 
young. 

Some of the cypresses may be used for 
hedges, particularly the Monterey cypress 
(C. macrocarpa)^ which, however, is not hardy 
in the northeast. Cupressus is closely re- 
lated to Chamaecyparis. The white cedar 
(C sphceroidea), is a hardy tree, reaching a 
height of some seventy feet. C. obtusa, a Jap- 
anese species, becomes much taller but is not as 
hardy as the Sawara cypress or retinispora 
(C ptsiferd). Of the latter two species 
variegated and dwarf forms exist, all highly 
ornamental and hardy. Finally the various 
forms of juniper may be added to the list. 

To break the lines of evergreens, deciduous 
trees are planted. 

SHRUBS FOR FOREGROUNDS 

As shrubbery in the foreground, the rhodo- 
dendrons claim first attention. Unfortu- 
nately, they do not do well in the warmer, in- 
land regions, being best adapted to moist 



198 WATER-LILIES 

atmospheres. Under similar conditions the 
deciduous azaleas will also grow. 

Other shrubs are: Cotoneaster, Cratae- 
gus, Daphne, Kalmia, Ptelea. The red osier 
dogwood for its red bark in winter, and Ilex 
verticillata for its berries are desirable, but be 
sure to plant both staminate and pistillate 
trees of the latter. 

WHAT PLANTS TO USE 

Just what plants to use for the immediate 
surroundings of the ponds depends somewhat 
on the size of the latter. For water gardens 
made of barrels, none but low plants can be 
employed. Around larger ponds, taller plants 
find a place. For ponds of large dimensions, 
bold effects can be aimed at, and indeed the 
landscape effect of the surroundings must 
never be lost sight of. Willows, especially the 
weeping willows, are most appropriate here. 

Everyone must be his own judge as far as 
border planting is concerned, and the follow- 
ing lists of plants (aquatic, swamp, and 



POND SURROUNDINGS I99 

terrestrial), include a host from which 
selections may be made according to fancy: 

HARDY SWAMP PLANTS 

Sweet flag {Acorus Calamus') does well 
when planted along the borders of ponds. It 
is perfectly hardy and has splendid yellow 
blossoms. It may be collected in wet grounds 
and along streams in the Eastern and Central 
United States. It has the disadvantage, in 
.common with all other species of Calamus, 
of having the leaves die at the top after the 
spring growth. This often necessitates cut- 
ting down the whole plant. It reaches a 
height of from three to four feet. Dwarfer 
are A. gramineus and A, gramtneus, var. 
vartegatus. 

Baneberry {Actcea alba), whose tall spikes 
of numerous white flowers show up well 
against the dark green background of the 
leaves, is a native of North America and 
like A. Japonica perfectly hardy. Its fruit 
all summer is also very effective. 



200 WATER-LILIES 

Unlike the bamboo, the giant reed {Arundo 
Donax) does not make young growth from 
the lower portions of the stalks. Hence, 
though very desirable for its bold effect, it 
must always be grown with other plants, to 
hide the bareness of the lower portion of the 
plant. There exists a variegated form. 

The brilliant, red-pink flower of one of the 
milkweeds {Asclepias tncarnata) offers, dur- 
ing the early summer months, a bright spot 
among the green of the border. The plant, 
however, has the disadvantage of presenting 
a miserable appearance in the latter part of 
the season. 

One of the most beautiful, hardy swamp- 
plants is the flowering rush (Butomus um- 
bellatus). The flower stem grows as high as 
three feet and bears pink flowers. The plant 
likes a wet soil. 

The water arum {Calla palustris) is quite 
hardy. It is a dwarf calla with creeping 
rhizome. On account of the similarity in 
name it is frequently confused with the marsh 
marigold (Caltha palustris), which, with its 



POND SURROUNDINGS 201 

many varieties, will be found quite satisfactory 
in wet places, especially on account of the 
brilliant yellow flowers. There is a double 
flowered variety {C. palustris, var. flore- 
pleno) a dwarf form, also double flowered 
(C. palustris, var., minor flore-pleno), and a 
form possessing double flowers larger than the 
species {C. palustris, var., monstrosus fl.pL). 
Other hardy species of caltha are C. hi flora and 
C. leptosepala. 

There are a number of species of sedge of 
ornamental appearance. Preferable are Carex 
acuta, var. alho-variegata and C. gallica, var. 
variegata. C. plantaginea is also to be recom- 
mended, as are C. pendula and C. riparia, 
var. variegata. 

The button snake root {Cimicifuga race- 
mosa) is a close relation of the baneberry and 
is very similar in appearance. 

The water hemlock (Cicuta maculata) is 
a hardy perennial, a native of the United 
States, and found everywhere along ponds 
and in marshy places. While tall and grace- 
ful and requiring absolutely no care, it must 



202 WATER-LILIES 

be remembered that it possesses poisonous 
properties, as does poison hemlock {Conium 
maculatum), but on account of its foHage 
which appears very early in spring, it is 
however to be recommended. Both plants 
reach a height of six feet or more. 

Cyperus longus is a hardy and ornamental 
swamp plant. 

The turtle heads (Chelone) are plants very 
fond of moist soil and possess white to reddish 
flowers, blooming in autumn. 

The horsetail rushes (Equisetum) are very 
satisfactory plants for the vicinity of water. 
Their straight stems form a great contrast 
with the cotton grass (Eriophorum) a grass 
whose tall,, nodding plumes, are more than 
graceful. This appearance it has in common 
with eulalia, of which there exist two 
variegated forms. 

The Pampas grass {Gynerium argenteum), 
with its most graceful plumes, greatly appre- 
ciates the neighbourhood of water. This 
plant, together with its numerous varieties, 
needs protection during the winter. This, 



POND SURROUNDINGS 



203 



too, is required by the Gunneras, beautiful 
foliage plants. Two species are in cultiva- 
tion, G. manicata and G. scabra. 

Hibiscus yields a number of species which 
naturally thrive under swamp conditions and 
are absolutely hardy. H. militarise H. Mos- 
cheutos and H. palustris are the species ordin- 
arily grown. Their large flowers, often ten 
inches across, are white, or pink, or white with 
a pink centre. The plants reach a height of 
four to six feet. 

The different species of day lily (Hem- 
erocallis) do excellently under almost any 
conditions. Once escaped from cultivation 
they manage to maintain themselves without 
trouble. The large orange or yellow flowers 
are very attractive, especially from a distance. 
There is a variegated variety of H. fulva. 

Of the numerous species of Iris, the Jap- 
anese (/. Icevigata, or /. Kcempferi of the 
trade), with numerous varieties, is the most 
satisfactory. Unfortunately these irises cease 
blooming by the middle of July. Less beau- 
tiful but thoroughly satisfactory is the Iris 



204 WATER-LILIES 

Pseudacorusy with beautiful yellow flowers. 
Iris versicolor, a swamp-loving plant, with 
large blue and yellow flowers, may also be 
used. Iris Germanica does not do well in 
wet soil, preferring a dry situation. 

A large number of rushes (Juncus) are 
ordinarily Hsted for swamp planting. Es- 
pecially to be recommended are J. Holo- 
schcenus, var. foliis variegatis and J. effususy 
var. vittatus. J. spiralis has curiously twisted 
stems. 

The cardinal flower (Lobelia cardinalis) is 
one of the most eff'ective plants used in the 
border of the pond. The tall spikes, loaded 
with brilliant scarlet flowers, are surpass- 
ingly beautiful. It flowers from July to 
September. 

LOW-GROWING PLANTS 

Among the low-growing plants, the lysima- 
chias are the favourites for planting immedi- 
ately adjacent to the water, especially the 
moneywort (L. Nummularta), which when 




=3 C 






;2 ^ 

• 2 ° 

^ -3 




•71 ^ 



-o o 






-c ^ 






POND SURROUNDINGS 205 

once planted, soon runs over the ground and 
stones. There is a golden leaved variety. 
These plants are grown entirely for foliage 
effect, but L. clethroides possesses long 
spikes of v^hite flow^ers reaching as high as 
three feet. 

The common loosestrife {Lythrum Sali- 
caria) is a plant which, though it will grow 
under even the most adverse conditions, is 
very grateful for moisture. It bears numer- 
ous tall spikes loaded with whorls of brilHant 
red flowers. Different shades of red are 
possessed by its varieties, atropurpurea and 
rosea superba. 

The water-mint {Mentha aquafica) is a 
low-growing form which, like the American 
pennyroyal {Mentha Pulegium), does ex- 
cellently on low ground and is to be recom- 
mended for use on the edges of ponds. 

In the same class is the forget-me-not 
{Myosotis palustrts), of which there are several 
varieties, such as var. semperflorens, which 
blooms throughout the summer, and a fasci- 
nated form which bears an exceedingly large 



206 WATER-LILIES 

number of flowers. A large-flowered variety 
is var. Stab tana. 



TENDER PLANTS FOR BORDERS 

For the dryer parts of borders plant 
bamboos, cannas, hibiscus, and bananas. 
Tender plants suitable for moist situations 
are callas and xanthosomas. The beautiful 
foliage of the latter, with its violet sheen, 
is particularly attractive. The same is true 
for the fohage of the Calathea zehrina; 
alocasias and colocasias (to the latter belongs 
the well-known elephant's ear) are greatly 
to be desired. 

PLANTS TO AVOID 

There are two water plants, both hardy, 
which must be warned against. The one 
is ditch moss or water weed {Elodea Cana- 
densis), which will take possession of a pond 
unless the most rigorous methods are taken 
to prevent such a contingency. The other 



POND SURROUNDINGS 207 

is the water chesnut (Trapa natans). This 
plant is all right in cement ponds which are 
cleaned out every year, but its introduction 
to natural ponds must be strongly advised 
against. The plant produces numerous fruits 
which, during the winter remain at the bottom 
of the pond, germinating in spring. Fre- 
quently it will happen that in May "an entire 
pond is covered with the young plants which 
choke out the water-lilies. Though it might 
be supposed that if at this time the plants were 
gathered with a dipnet and destroyed, it would 
tend to overcome the evil, this is not so. 
Unfortunately new plants appear on the sur- 
face and repeated gathering of these plants 
only will overcome the trouble. The propor- 
tion of their cost to their advantage is far too 
great to allow them to be introduced in 
natural ponds. 

ADJUNCT PLANTS GROWN FOR THEIR LEAVES 

Bear's breech Acanthus sp. 

Baneberry Actcea alba 

Red baneberry Actcea spicaia, var. rubra 

Hercules' club Aralia spinosa 

Giant reed Arundo Donax 



208 



WATER-LILIES 



Plume poppy 

Gunnera 

Jointweed 

Rhubarb 
Saxifrage 
Meadow rue 
Colt's foot 
Arrow arum 
False hellebore 



B Oceania cor data 

Gunnera manicata and G. scabra 

Polygonum Sacchalinense and P. 

cuspidatum 
Rheum sp. 
Saxifraga peltata 
Thalictrum sp. 
Tussilago Far far a 
Pehandra Virgin tea 
Veratrum album 



SOME ACCESSORY PLANTS OF VARIOUS HEIGHTS 



Less than one foot high 
Water arum 
Moneywort 
Water mint 
American pennyroyal 
Buckbean 
Forget-me-not 
Orange milkwort 
Mandrake 

One to two feet high : 
Small flag 
Marsh marigold 
Golden seal 
Ground lily 

Two to three feet high : 
Baneberry 
Flowering rush 
Turtle head 
Bugbane 
Day lily 
Irises 

Loosestrife 
Arrow arum 
Arrowhead 

Three to four feet high: 
Sweet flag 
Variegated sweet flag 



Calla palustris 
Lysimaehia Nutnmularia 
Mentha aquatica 
Mentha Pulegium 
Menyanthes trifoliata 
Myosotis palustris 
Poly gala lutea 
Podophyllum peltatum 



Aeorus gramineus 
C alt ha palustris 
Hydrastis Canadensis 
Trillium grandiforum 



Actcea alba 
Butomus umbellatus 
Chelone sp. 
Cimicifuga racemosa 
Hemerocallis fulva 
Iris spps. 

Lysimaehia clethroides 
Pehandra Virginica 
Sagittaria sp. 



Aeorus Calamus 

Aeorus Calamus, var. variegatus 



POND SURROUNDINGS 



209 



Swamp milkweed 
Horsetail 
Woolly rush 
Pampas grass 
Gumiera 
Cardinal flower 
Eulalia 
Pickerel weed 

From five feet high or more: 
Giant reed 
Papyrus 

Swamp rose mallow 
Purple loosestrife 
Cat-tails 



Asclepias incarnata 
Equisetum sps. 
Eriophorum sps. 
Gynerium argenteum 
Gunnera manicata 
Lobelia cardinalis 
Miscanthus Sinensis 
Pontederia cordata 



Arundo Donax 

Cyperus Papyrus 

Hibiscus Moscheutos 

Lythrum Salicaria 

Typha latijolia and angustifolia 



Water-lilies for Special Purposes 



CHAPTER XV 

Water-lilies for Special Purposes 

The following lists are designed to help the 
amateur in making selections of varieties to 
suit his own peculiar requirements. 

[Editor's Note : No two people will always 
think alike, and, therefore, there may be some 
slight differences of opinion about the make-up 
of some of the following lists, but we believe 
that they may be accepted as reasonably true 
for a majority of cases. There is some con- 
fusion concerning the names of a few of the 
water-lilies, and possibly there are totally 
distinct plants distributed under one name. 
This is certainly the case with N. pulcherrimay 
a hybrid raised by Mr. Tricker which is re- 
corded by him as being sterile. Other 
cultivators, on the other hand, say that this 
water-lily produces seed freely with them. It 

is known that there are two, probably three, 
213 



214 WATER-LILIES 

distinct plants distributed under this title. 
On the other hand, there is the possibility 
that hybrids which are sterile in one section 
of the country may, under other and more 
favourable conditions, become fertile. These 
are things about which one cannot yet speak 
positively. More particular details about 
each variety will be found in the preceding 
pages.] 

THE MOST FLORIFEROUS 

Hardy: 

N. alba, var. candidissima white 

N. W. B. Shaw pink 

N. James Brydon red 

N. Laydekeri, var. rosea small pink 

N. Marliacea, var. chromatella yellow 

Tender: 

N. dentata, var. magnifca white ) 

N. Omar ana magenta > night blooming 

N. rubra, var. rosea red ) 

N . favo-virens white \ 

N. William Stone blue >• day blooming 

N.Mrs. C.W.Ward pink ) 

THE MOST DOUBLE 

Hardy: 

N. tuberosa, var. Richardsoni white 

N. James Brydon red 

N. Marliacea, var. chromatella yellow 

Tender: 

N ckntata, var. magnifica white | ^.^^ j^j^^^j 

N. Sturtevanttt pmk J * ^ 

N. Zanzibariensis blue .... day blooming 



WATER-LILIES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES 215 



FRAGRANT FLOWERED WATER-LILIES 

All the tender day bloomers 
N. odorata, and varieties 
N. odorata rosea and hybrids 
N. tetragona 

THE BEST RED WATER-LILIES 
Tender: 

N. gracilis, var. rubra day blooming 

N. Omar ana magenta ^ 

N.ruhra-rosea largest red | 

N. Columbiana i )■ night blooming 

N. George Husler .... > deepest color | 
N. Frank Trelease . . . . ) J 

Hardy: 

N. Marliacea, var. ignea deepest colour 

N. James Brydon strongest plant 

THE BEST YELLOW WATER-LILIES 

N. Marliacea, var. chromatella "| 

N. odorata, var. sulphurea >■ day blooming 

N. tetragona, var. helvola J 

THE BEST WHITE WATER-LILIES 
Hardy: 

N. alba, var. candidissima "| 

N. Gladstoniana >■ day blooming 

N. Marliacea, var. albida J 

Tender: 

N. dentata, var. grandifora night blooming 

N. favo-virens day blooming 

THE BEST BLUE WATER-LILIES 
Tender: 

N. Zanzibariensis ") 

N. Pennsylvania > day blooming 

N. William Stone ) 



2l6 WATER-LILIES 



WATER-LILIES WITH LARGEST FLOWERS 
Hardy: 

N. Gladstoniana white 

N. William Doogue pearl 

Tender: 

N. dentata, var. magnifica white ) 

N. Omarana magenta >• night blooming 

N. rubra-rosea red ) 

N. Zanzibar ien sis deep blue \ j ui 

N. gigantea light blue / ^ 

EARLIEST BLOOMING WATER-LILIES 
Hardy: 

N. alba, var. candidissima white 

N.W.B. Shaw pink 

N. Marliacea, var. chromatella yellow 

N. James Brydon red 

WATER-LILIES FOR WINTER FLOWERING 

N. Pennsylvania blue 

N . Zanzibariensis blue 

N, William Stone blue } day blooming 

N. Stella Gurney pink 

N. Mrs. C. W. Ward pink 

N. dentata white ) -1.^1.1 

j.yi. ucniuiu . . y night bloommg 

N.Devomensts red J ^ ^ 

WATER LILIES-WITH SMALL SPREAD ON THE WATER 

Hardy; 

N. odorata, var. minor white 

N. tetragona white 

N. tetragona, var. helvola yellow 

N. Laydekeri, var. rosea pink 

WATER-LILIES THAT SPREAD SIX FEET OR MORE 

Hardy: 

N. odorata, var. gigantea white 

N. tuber osa, and varieties white and pink 

All tender kinds except A'^. Mexicana and N. eJegans 



WATER-LILIES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES 217 

FOR CUT FLOWERS 

Hardy: 

N. odorata ^^"^ 

N. odorata, var. rosea P*°*^ 

N. Marliacea, var. rosea P^^^ 

N. Marliacea, var. chrotnatella yellow 

N. W. B. Shaw ?'^^^ 

N. James Brydon red 

N. Rohinsoni ""^^ 

Tender: 

N. rubra, var. rosea red J 

N.Omarana magenta V night blooming 

N. dentata, and varieties white ) 

JV. Pennsylvania blue ^ 

N. William Stone blue I day bloommg 

N. Mrs. C. W. Ward pink | 

N. Stella Gurney pink j 



SIX RECOMMENDED FOR BEGINNERS 

Hardy: 

N. Gladstoniana ^^^'^^ 

N. Marliacea, var. chromatella yellow 

N. W. B. Shaw P»n'' 

Tender: 

N. dentata white ) -^^ blooming 

N. Omarana magenta J 

N. Zanzibar iensis blue day bloommg 



WATER-LILIES THAT SEED THEMSELVES, AND COME 
TRUE FROM SEED 

Hardy: 

N. odorata and varieties white, etc. 

N.alba ^ 

N. Candida I white 

N . tetragona f 

N.tuberosa J 

N. Mexicana ye"ow 



2l8 WATER-LILIES 



Tender: 

N. ccerulea blue 

N. Capensis " 

N. Zanzihariensis " 

N. elegans " 

N. favo-virens {gracilis) white 

JV. dentata " 

N.Lotus " 

Victoria Cruziana white, then red 

V.regia " 

Euryale ferox red 



day blooming 



night blooming 



WATER-LILIES WHICH SEED BUT LITTLE AND CANNOT 
BE EXPECTED TO BREED TRUE 

Hardy: 

JV. W. B. Shaw pink 

N. Gladstoniana white 

N. odorata, var. Caroliniana pink 

Tender: 

N. Omarana"^ magenta 

N. Sturtevantii pink 

N. Kewensis* " 

N. Deaniana " 

N. delicatissima pearl 

N. Frank Trelease crimson 

N. Smithiana " 

N. Jubilee'^ " 

A'^. Devoniensis red 

N. rubra, var. rosed^ 

* Mr. Gurney says these seed liberally at St. Louis 

WATER-LILIES THAT NEVER PRODUCE SEED 

Hardy: 

JV. alba, var. candidissima 

All yellows or yellow tinted, except iV. Mexicana 

All pinks or reds except N. odorata, var. rosea, and N. alba, var. rubra 

All Marliac and Laydekeri hybrids 
Tender: 

iV. Pennsylvania blue ^ 

iV. pulcherrima I 

N.William Stone " j 

N. Mrs. C. W. Ward pink J 



WATER-LILIES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES 219 

TENDER WATER-LILIES WHOSE MATURE PLANTS WILL 
MAKE WINTER TUBERS IN THE CELLAR 

N. favo-virens (gracilis) ^ 

N. William Stone ! „ , , , 

N. Mrs. C. fV. Ward ] "^^ ^^^ ^^°°°'^" 

N. elegans J 

WATER-LILIES FOR WATER MORE THAN TWO FEET DEEP 

Hardy: 

N. alba, var. candidissima white 

N. odor Ota, var. gigantea <* 

N, tuberosa " 

N. Marliacea, var. albida " 

N. Marliacea, var. rosea pink 

N. Marliacea, var. carnea « 

WATER-LILIES FOR WATER LESS THAN ONE FOOT DEEP 

Hardy: 

N. odorata, var. minor white 

N. tetragona " 

N. tetragona, var. helvola yellow 

N. Mexicana " 

N. Laydekeri, var. rosea pink 

N. Laydekeri, var. Jul gens magenta 

Tender: 

N. Zanzibar ien sis blue ] 

N. William Stone " > day blooming 

A'". Mrs. C. W. Ward pink ) 

All kinds will do well in one to two feet of water 



INDEX 



INDEX 



Accessory plants, 191, 213. 
Acorus, 199. 
Algae, 50, 183. 
Aquatic grass, 160. 
Aquatics, choice, 157. 
Arrow-leaf, 169. 
Arundo Donax, 200. 
AzoUa Caroliniana, 168. 

Barrel ponds, 3, 6. 
situations for, 7. 
Baskets, planting in, 48. 
Bed of pond, 11. 
Beginners' water-lilies, 217. 
Bladderworts, 165. 
Blue vitriol for algas, 183. 
Blue water-lilies, 215. 
Bog garden, 16. 
Bordeaux mixture, 186. 
Border plants, 165, 206. 
Boxes for planting, 47. 
Brick and cement, 21. 

Cabomba, 165. 
Calla palustris, 200. 
Caltha palustris, 200. 
Cape Cod water-lily, 95. 
Cardinal flower, 1 7, 1 69, 204. 
Caspary, Professor, 83. 
Cattail, 168. 



Ceratopteris thalictroides, 

166. 
Chelone, 202. 
Chinese water-hly, 89. 
Cicuta maculata, 201. 
Cimicifuga racemosa, 201. 
Clay puddling, 32. 
Cleaning the pond, 35. 
Compost, 48. 
Concrete, 24, 26. 
Construction, pond, 12, 21. 

cost of, 23, 26, 30. 
Copper sulphate, 183. 
Crawfish, 9, 184. 
Cut flowers, 17, 217. 

Dates for planting out, 41. 
Day-blooming water-lillies, 

89, 107. 
Depth of pond, 13, 35. 
Ditch moss, 206. 
Double water-lilies, 214. 
Drainage, 176. 
Draining a pond, 35. 
Duckweeds, 168. 

Earliest blooming water- 

HHes, 216. 
Egyptian lotus, 118, 158. 
paper plant, 160. 



223 



224 



WATER-LILIES 



Eichhornia, 5, 157, 162. 
Elodea Canadensis, 206. 
Euryale ferox, 135, 136. 
Evaporation, loss by, 15. 

Ferns, 166, 168. 
Floating moss, 168. 
Floods, prevention of, 36. 
Floriferous water-lilies, 2 1 4. 
Flowering rush, 200. 
Flowers, young and old, 17. 
Foster, B. G., notes by, 26. 
Fragrant flowered water- 
lilies, 215. 
Fungus growth, 186 

Garden in a tub, 5. 
Giant Hly, 113. 

reed, 200. 
Golden club, 167. 
Gorgon plant, 135, 136. 
Growing under glass, 173. 
Gurney, James, 84, 142. 

Hardy swamp plants, 199. 

water-lilies, 89. 

water-liHes, key to, 100. 

water-liUes,wintering, 53 
Heating ponds, 175. 
Hedges for small ponds, 191. 
Hibiscus Moscheutos, 17, 

168. 
Horn fern, 166. 
Horsetail rushes, 202. 
Hybridisation, 75. 

Jussieua, 45. 



Kerosene emulsion, 185. 
Key, hardy water-lilies, 100. 

tender day-bloomers,i2i. 

tender night-bloomers, 
136. 

Large spreading water- 

Ulies, 216. 
Leaf cutter, 185. 

miner, 185. 
Lemna, 168. 
Limnocharis, 45, 163. 
Lizard's tail, 167. 
Lotos group, the, 136. 
Lotus, American, 157. 

Egyptian, 118. 

Indian Csee Nelumbium), 
46, 158. 

night, II. 
Lysimachia Nummularia, 

204. 
Lythrum Salicaria, 205. 

Magenta water-lilies, 126. 
Maidenhair fern, 169. 
Mallow, 17, 168. 
Marginal protection, win- 
ter, 12. 

treatment, 9. 
Marsh marigold, 200. 
MarsiHa, 10, 166. 
Meehan, Thomas, 142. 
Mentha aquatica, 205. 
Moss, ditch, 206. 

floating, 168. 
Mould, 28. 
Muskrat, 181. 



INDEX 



225 



Myriophyllum proserpina- 

coides, 166. 
Natural ponds, 42. 

springs, 13. 
Nelumbium, 158. _ 
Nelumbo lutea, 157, 160. 

nucifera, 158, 160. 

planting time for, 46. 

rosea, 159. 
Night-blooming water-lilies, 

wintering, 54. 
Nymphaea alba, loi. 

var. candidissima, 100, 

lOI. 

var. maxima, loi. 
var. plenissima, lOi. 
var. rubra, 96, 103. 
Amazonum, 117, 132, 

136. 
ampla, 70, 116, 121, 

132. 
Andreana, 103. 
Arc-en-ciel, 103. 
Arethusa, 103. 
Aurora, 98, 103. 
caerulea, 56, 70, 118, 

119, 122. 
Candida, loi. 
Capensis, 70, 119, 122. 
Caroliniana, 102. 
chrysantha, 103. 
Columbiana, 129, 136. 
Mrs. C. W. Ward, 61, 

no, 116, 122. 
Deaniana, 131, 136. 
delicatissima, 131, 136. 



Nymphaea dentata, 84, 130, 
136. 

var. grandiflora, 130. 
var. magnifica, 130. 
var. superba, 130. 
Devoniensis, 11, 82, 128, 

136. 

elegans, 70, 117, 122. 
ElHsiana, 103. 
exquisita, 92, 96, 102. 
flavo-virens, 54, 61, in, 

115,116,121. 

var. rubra, 11, 122. 
Frank Trelease, 84, 127, 

136. 
Froebelii, 103. 
fulgens, 103. 
fulva, 103. 

Geo. Huster, 129, 136. 
gigantea, 70, 113, 114, 

122, 169. 
Gladstoniana, 93, loi. 
gloriosa, 102. 
graciHs, 70, in, 115. 
James Brydon, 97, 103. 
James Gurney, 97, 103. 
James Gurney, Jr., 129. 
Jubilee, 131, 136. 
■ Kewensis, 83, 131, 136, 

137- 
Laydekeri, 92. 

var. lilacea, 102. 

var. rosea, 91, 102. 

var. rosea prolifera, 102. 
purpurata, 97, 103. 
Lotus, II, 82, 131, 136. 
lucida, 103. 



226 



WATER-LILIES 



Nymphaea Marliacea, var., 
albida, 94, loi. 
var. carnea, 94, 102. 
var. chromatella, 92, 

lOI. 

var. flammea, 102. 

var. ignea, 102. 

var. rosea, 95, 102. 

var. rubra, 103. 
Mexicana, 90, 97, 100. 
odorata, 99, 100, loi. 

var. gigantea, 100, loi. 

var. Luciana, 102. 

var. minor, 99, loi. 

var. rosea, 99, 102. 

var. sulphurea, 93, loi. 
Omarana, 84, 126, 136. 
Pennsylvania, 120, 122. 
pulcherrima, 120, 122, 

Robinsoni, 76, 98, 103. 
rosacea, 102. 
rubra, 82, 132. 
sanguinea, 97, 103. 
Seignoreti, 98, 103. 
Smithiana, 131, 136. 
Stella Gurney, no, 116, 

122. 
stellata, var. versicolor, 

112, 122. 
Stuhlmannii, 121. 
Sturtevantii, 11, 62, 84, 

127, 136. 
sulphurea, 121. 

var. grandiflora, loi. 
thermalis, 131. 
tuberosa, 99, 100, loi. 



Nymphasa tuberosa, var., 

Richardsonii, loi. 

var. rosea, 102. 

var. rubra, 85. 

var. superba, 102. 
versicolor, 70. 
Wm. Doogue, 95, 102. 
Wm. Falconer, 97, 103. 
Wm. Stone, 61, no, 116, 

122. 
tetragona, 89, loi. 

var. helvola, 90, 100. 
Zanzibariensis, 70, 84, 

108, 122. 

var. azurea, no, 122. 

var. rosea, no, 122. 

Orontium aquaticum, 167. 
Outline of pond, 34. 
in relation to size, 8. 

Papyrus antiquorum, 160. 
Parrot's feather, 166. 
Pickerel-weed, 167. 
Pink water-lilies, 112. 
Planting, boxes for, 47. 

in baskets, 48. 

in concrete ponds, 44. 

in natural ponds, 42. 

out, dates, 41. 

out, methods of, 42. 

time for, 41, 46, 177. 
Plants, wintering, 61. 
Pond bed, n. 

cleaning, 35. 

concrete, 24, 26. 

construction, 12, 21. 



INDEX 



227 



Pond bed, depth of, 13, 35. 

draining, 35, 176. 

heating, 175. 

outUnes of, 8, 34. 

two feet square, 3. 
Pontederia cordata, 167. 
Propagation, forcing, 59. 

methods, 59, 60. 
Protection for winter, 53. 

from wind, 191. 

of margins, 12. 
Puddling, clay, 32. 

Red and yellow blends in 
water-lilies, 97. 
water-HUes, 96, 128, 215. 
Repairs to ponds, 35. 



Sagittaria latifolia, 169. 
Salvinia, 168. 
Saururus cernuus, 167. 
Scum, 50. 
Seed development, 67. 

growing from, 61. 

mixing, how to prevent, 
68. 

ripening, 68. 

time to sow, 69. 
Seedlings, curious facts 
about, 119. 

how to plant, 43. 

transplanting, 70. 
Sides of pond, slope of, 21. 
Sium cicutaefolium, 45. 
Small spreadingwater-liUes, 
216. 



Snails, 186. 
Snapping turtle, 182. 
Soil, 48. 

Sorting tubers, 57. 
Springs, 13. 
Sturtevant, E. D., 159. 
Submerged plants, 164. 
Sunfish, 183. 
Swedish water-lily, 96. 

Temperature, of water, 62, 

145- 
Tender day-bloomers, 70, 

day-blooming water-lilies, 
107.^ 

wintering, 54. 

water-lilies, to make win- 
ter tubers of, 219. 
ThaUa divaricata, 161. 
Transplanting, 58. 

seedlings, 70. 
Trapa natans, 187, 207. 
Tricker, W., 12, 83. 
Tub garden, 5. 
Typha, 168. 

Utricularia, 165. 

Victoria, 133, 136, 141,178. 
Cruziana, 37, 136, 143. 
regia, 136, 143, 149. 

Walks, 177. 
Water arum, 200. 

chestnut, 187, 207. 

clover, 10. 



228 



WATER-LILIES 



Water, depth, 13, 35. 

gardens, situations for, 3. 

hemlock, 201. 

hyacinth, 5, 157, 162. 

level, in tanks, 63. 

loss by evaporation, 15. 

poppy» 45» 163. 

supply for ponds, 22, 176. 

temperature, 62, 145. 
Water-HHes, blue, 215. 

day-blooming, 89, 107. 

for beginners, 217. 

for cut flowers, 217. 

for deep water, 219. 

for shallow water, 219. 

night-blooming, 125. 

pink, 112. 

red, 96, 128, 215. 

small spreading, 216. 

that never produce seed, 
218. 



Water-lilies that seed but 
Httle, 218. 
that seed themselves, 21 7. 
under glass, 173. 
white, 215. 

winter flowering, 216. 
with largest flowers, 

216. 
yellow, 97, 121, 213. 
White water-lilies, 215. 
Windbreaks, 191. 
Winter flowering water- 
Ulies, 216. 
protection, 53. 

of margins, 12. 
quarters, 55. 
Wintering, 61. 

Yellow water-lilies, 97, 215. 

Zanzibar water-lily, 108. 



OCT 23 1907 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




QQ0Q^20a7ai 



